When discussing the first generation of Zenith’s legendary El Primero automatic chronograph series in the late ‘60s and early ‘70s, most models fall into one of two camps. Many of these early iterations of the El Primero either sport the compact, angular tonneau case like the A384 and A385 lines, or these watches use a more traditional round case design with the line’s instantly recognizable overlapping tricolor chronograph subdials, like the A386 series. Only one model in this original period, the El Primero A3817, ever carried both the tonneau case and the tricolor dial, and that watch had a production run of only 1000 units for a brief period in 1971. Needless to say, these rare iterations are lusted after by Zenith cognoscenti, and for its latest release, the brand has created a stunningly faithful revival of this elusive vintage reference. The new boutique exclusive Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 is a resurrection of one of the El Primero line’s most interesting transitional models, as well as a greatest hits collection of classic El Primero cues.
Like the current A385 revival models, the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 uses the exact case dimensions from the original 1969 El Primero series. A far cry from the scaled-up modern reimaginings common across much of the industry, this stainless steel case measures in at a truly compact 37mm. While small, this case should give a solid presence on the wrist, thanks to its bold planar shape, piston pushers, and mix of brushed and polished surfaces. Like the original 1971 A3817, this sports a domed crystal, but Zenith renders this in modern quality with sapphire. Likewise, around back, the El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 adds a sapphire display back to the vintage case design. One element of the case that remains stubbornly ‘70s, however, is the water resistance. Zenith rates the El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 at a meager 50 meters.
The dial of the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 is undoubtedly the centerpiece of this design, bringing together many of the most cherished visual cues among Zenith collectors into a single package. The lacquered white main dial surface is ringed and visually compacted by a black outer scale containing both the traditional tachymeter and a pulsometer scale, a relative rarity in the El Primero line. The El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 also revives the “shark tooth” seconds scale seen on the El Primero A3818 “Cover Girl,” with a triangular pattern for its 1/10 second markings that both aids legibility and gives a punch of distinctiveness to the outer dial. Of course, the overlapping white, neutral gray, and navy blue chronograph subdials are the stars of the show here, injecting the design with nuanced color and texture with their azurage finishing. The use of khaki lume for the striped baton hands and beveled applied indices adds a warm touch to counterbalance the cooler tones of the subdials, and this soft color palette is given a jolt of vibrant life with the fire engine red chronograph seconds hand. Other classic El Primero touches abound here as well, including the notched seconds scale to accommodate the 4:30 date window. All in all, the assortment of rare and desirable El Primero cues on the dial of the El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 avoids feeling cluttered or overstuffed, instead comes off as detailed and pleasantly dynamic in initial images.
Zenith powers the El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 with the in-house El Primero 400 automatic chronograph movement. The El Primero 400 is a modern descendant of the original movement used in the 1971 A3817, and boasts a respectable 50-hour power reserve at the El Primero’s signature 36,000 bph beat rate along with a column wheel actuation system. To complete the package, the brand pairs the El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 with a choice of two bracelet options. The ladder-style stainless steel bracelet is likely the more spectacular of the pair, rendering the distinctive Gay Frères design used in early El Primero models with contemporary build quality. The honey brown calf leather strap is a subtler option, keeping the overall look simpler and introducing another element of visual warmth in images.
By reviving one of its rarest and most sought-after vintage references while blending together many of its most collector-friendly visual elements, the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 offers a stunning take on the early El Primero line that should deeply excite the Zenith faithful. The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Revival A3817 is available now exclusively through Zenith boutiques and the brand’s e-commerce platform at an MSRP of $8,400 for bracelet-equipped models. For more details, please visit the brand’s website.