In the early 2000s, a new era of modern horology emerged to reinterpret what a watch could be. Mechanical watches were no longer just about keeping the time, but also an appreciation for the mechanical complexity and craftsmanship that goes into these pieces. Some of the most significant contributors to this new era were Urwerk and MB&F, who hoped to redefine the purpose of a watch in the modern age. They created mechanical sculptures for the wrist by reinterpreting how a watch could display time. These type of watches have always been produced in small quantities (10-100 pieces), meaning that manufacturing costs are much higher compared to mass-produced items. This combination leads to very rare and sought-after pieces that are astronomically priced. Xeric has always been a fan of unique designs and strives to make them accessible for the masses.
The new Xeric Invertor Automatic features a modified Miyota 90S5, a proprietary in-house module, Super-LumiNova, and a unique case construction machined from sapphire, hesalite, and 316L stainless steel.
Inverted Movement Module
In order for the Miyota 9000 Calibre movement to display time clockwise, Xeric needed to develop a module that would reverse the gear train. The module is attached to the mainplate and consists of five gears, reversing both the hours and minutes. This simple module allows them to maintain the reliability and serviceability of a Miyota 90S5 while creating a fun (unique) way of displaying time. Each module is thoroughly tested throughout the assembly process to ensure that the movement still holds the same chronometric standards (-10/＋30 sec per day).
Super-LumiNova Winding Rotor
By flipping the movement over, the motion of the balance wheel and rotor can easily be seen throughout the day. Xeric also added Super-LumiNova along channels in the rotor so its motion can continue to be enjoyed at night.
Large 3D Crystal Case
The case is composed of three main sub-assemblies: the top bezel, the side viewing window, and the caseback. The side viewing window is CNC-machined out of a large block of hesalite crystal, allowing the wearer to easily see the inner dial and hands. This crystal component sits between two steel bezels that help protect from daily wear. This construction is unique in that the movement and module are suspended above the dial, held in place by the crystal case. The top crystal is sapphire glass, and the side viewing window is made from hesalite. This material was introduced in the 1960s as a crystal replacement for space-bound watches. A standard sapphire crystal poses many issues in the event of an impact in zero gravity, as tiny fragments of floating glass could spell disaster for the cabin and onboard crew. To remedy this, NASA replaced sapphire crystals with hesalite versions, as they have a higher resistance to impact and do not shatter like traditional glass.
Numerous versions of the side viewing window were tested with sapphire crystal; however, there were many issues that would make the watch difficult to mass produce. The defect rate on sapphire crystals was roughly one in five, due to the sapphire shattering or being off tolerance. Even the pieces that passed inspection still ran the risk of chipping or cracking when press-fitting the crown tube during assembly. Although Xeric could have gone through this process, it would have nearly tripled the retail price and made the watch cost-prohibitive for many people. Xeric’s is to create unique timepieces that are still at an attainable price, so hesalite offers the same optical clarity without the high risk of defects or significant price increase.
Lugless Design
The lugless design tucks the strap flush with the caseback, giving the watch a smooth and comfortable fit on the wrist. This integrated design gives the watch a clean modern look and sits on all wrist sizes without having overhanging lugs.
American Horween Leather
The straps are made using full-grain leather from Horween, one of the oldest continuously running tanneries in the United States. Since 1908, Horween has been making the highest-quality leather at its Chicago location on the corner of Elston and Ashland. The straps also feature a quick-release springbar system, allowing you to swap out different straps for every occasion.
These watches were made with the intent of offering something truly different in the sub-$1,000 category. Xeric was tired of seeing all the generic dive, pilot, and racing-inspired watches that oversaturate the market and give microbrands a bad reputation. They believe watchmaking shouldn’t be about a lofty or vague heritage, nor should it be pulling generic cases and dials from a catalog and calling it a day. They understand that their designs will be polarizing and are certainly not made to appeal to everyone, but if you’re tired of the ordinary, this watch might be just your thing.
You can preorder the Invertor on Kickstarter.com now for $489 USD; then it will be available on xeric.com for $699 USD. The brand would love to hear what you think and what kind of designs you’d like to see in the future. xeric.com
Tech Specs
Case:
-Hand-finished 316L steel case
-Sapphire top crystal
-Domed hesalite side crystal case
– 30 meters water resistance
-46mm x 14mm
Movement:
-modified Miyota 90S5
-Proprietary In-house module
Functions:
-Super-LumiNova hours, minutes, and front-facing winding rotor
Strap:
-Horween leather sourced from U.S. based tannery
-Quick release spring-bar system to easily swap out straps
Limited to 999 pieces per color
Sponsored Posts are a form of advertising that allows sponsors to share useful news, messages, and offers to aBlogtoWatch readers in a way traditional display advertising is often not best suited to. All Sponsored Posts are subject to editorial guidelines with the intent that they offer readers useful news, promotions, or stories. The viewpoints and opinions expressed in Sponsored Posts are those of the advertiser and not necessarily those of aBlogtoWatch or its writers.
