The moon phase in the upper right quadrant is complemented at the lower right by Glashütte Original’s signature big date display, known as the “Panorama Date”. It’s a compelling implementation of the traditional big date, with an important difference. In contrast to similar complications from rival watchmakers, the two numerical discs required to display the date are concentrical and hence are located on the same plane: there is no need to disguise a gap between numeric discs with a vertical bar in the middle of the display. The absence of the bar makes for excellent legibility, enhanced in this case by contrasting black numerals on a white ground.
In one last, lingering look at this lovely dial, we note the softly faceted hour and minute hands are fashioned in white gold, as is the slim hand of the small seconds dial, a fitting complement to the wintry white light of the moon and the sparkling brilliance of starlit diamonds.
The Glashütte Original Manufactory Calibre 90 Powers The PanoMatic Luna
There’s another side to this winter wonder: flip the watch over and you’ll find a sapphire crystal window into the world of Glashütte Original. The eye is drawn instantly to the butterfly, also known as the “duplex swan‐neck fine adjustment” system, a masterpiece of functional, precision engineering and the traditional finishing skills of hand‐engraving, galvanization, and polishing. Custom‐developed in the Saxon manufactory, the device allows for especially precise adjustment of the movement. It utilizes two “swan‐neck” springs operating independently of each other to regulate the watch’s rate symmetry.
Though there is a lot more to know about how it works, another facet of fascination about the butterfly is that is shows, convincingly, the lengths to which the Saxon manufactory’s watchmakers will go to transform complex functionality into a thing of beauty. It also exemplifies the combination of high‐tech machinery with traditional craft skills that makes it all possible. The graceful “swan‐neck” springs, for example, are made using “spark erosion”, an advanced electrolyte technology in which a metal wire finer than a human hair is used to cut the springs from a stainless steel blank with exceptional precision. They are then polished by hand before a master watchmaker carefully assembles this beautiful component.
Through the sapphire crystal case back one can admire the Calibre 90‐02 automatic movement, from the skeletonized rotor with its 21‐carat oscillating weight to the characteristic elements of Glashütte watchmaking: three‐quarter plate with Glashütte stripe finish, polished steel parts, beveled edges, blued screws and screw balance with 18 weighted screws.
Setting The Time & Phase Of The Moon Indications On The PanoMatic Luna
A quick word on how to set the time and complications. First, wind the watch; the efficient automatic winding mechanism will take care of replenishing the 42‐hour power reserve from then on every time the watch is worn. As for setting the time of day, pull out the crown to position 3 by pulling it out all the way, turn it until the hour hand passes 12 o’clock and the date indicator changes once, signaling the beginning of the day and continue to set the current time. To set the date, use the quick date adjustment via position 2 of the crown, pulled halfway out, and turn the crown anti‐clockwise. The date indicator skips forward one day at a time. Synchronizing the moon phase seems complicated at first, but it isn’t, really. It involves pressing the moon phase adjuster at 2 o’clock at the side of the case to place the moon disc to the center of the dial cut‐out, then counting the number of days since the last full moon – say six days, for example, not counting today – and pressing the adjuster a further six times. And in a nice touch from a pre‐digital world, the manufactory provides, on paper, a current lunar calendar to help you set the moon phase.
That is all to be said about the Glashütte Original PanoMatic Luna – the rest, all that matters, comes from wearing it. It’s winter, after all, and wintertime is dream time… And what would the holiday season be without wishful thinking and realized dreams? Sit by the fire, be happy you’re warm when it’s freezing outside. Give yourself over to the irresistible pull of the moon, to the power of that heavenly body to move you, and dream. Find the Glashütte Original boutique nearest to you for a chance to appreciate the PanoMatic Luna in all its stainless steel and brilliant-cut diamond beauty on our website.
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