I’ve long been a fan of Tsao Baltimore watches. I’m a native of Maryland, so the Baltimore-based brand had a special appeal, doubly so as my mother is from the city. But demographic affinity only gets one so far, and a watch has to actually be attractive to be worth my (or anyone’s) time. Tsao Baltimore started really hitting its stride with the Legacy collection, an angular line of watches that offered GMT options in addition to a slew of colorways, bronze cases (and bracelets), and mother-of-pearl dial options. The new Tsao Baltimore Torsk-Diver Professional updates the original Torsk-Diver and keeps the brand’s streak alive, with seven colorways available in either bronze or steel.

The Tsao Baltimore Torsk-Diver Professional clocks in at 43mm, measuring 13.6mm thick and 50mm lug-to-lug. On the wrist, it wears very well, due to the arcing case profile and fitment with the straps. There’s also something to be said about proportions here. A 50mm L2L and a 43mm diameter is an entirely different beast when it’s 15mm+ thick than when it’s just 13.6mm. The latter provides a good balance, though I won’t sit here and tell you it wears small, just that it wears very well for its dimensions.

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The midcase has polished chamfers and brushing on its tops and sides, while the case band has a single recessed line and on the left side features an affixed plate with the hull number of the USS Torsk submarine, which sits in Baltimore’s Inner Harbor and for which the model is named. The watch has sapphire crystal and a substantial and probably excessive 300m water resistance — the USS Torsk submarine only had a test depth of 120m.

Rounding out the case is the 120-click bezel. The bezel itself matches the case material, but the domed sapphire crystal insert is color-matched to each dial. Pushing utility a notch further, the markings on the bezel are fully lumed with Super-LumiNova. The edge of the bezel has well-defined grooves that provide an easy grip, but I found the tension to be somewhat tight. Finally, the screw-down crown is located at an uncommon 2 o’clock, with a sweeping crown guard affixed on the right side below it. I found this allowed for operation on the wrist without sacrificing typical off-wrist engagement. The crown also never dug into my wrist!

The case is offered in either stainless steel or bronze: the bronze gets a fitted FKM rubber cut-to-size strap, while the steel cases are paired with a beads-of-rice bracelet. Both options are comfortable and can be worn year-round, but the bracelet has quick-release pins and a clasp with a built-in micro-adjustment mechanism for rapid sizing. The FKM has an older mechanism that offers the same functionality in a bit bulkier package but lacks the quick-release pins. While the bracelet clasp is sleeker, the rubber strap’s clasp can be adjusted on the wrist in both directions. I also found the beads of the bracelet a bit mushy, with soft transitions, but this was purely aesthetic and likely arose out of staring at them too closely for too long. As with any beads of rice bracelet, the small links allow for added articulation and greater comfort.

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I think the case of the Torsk is one of my favorite things about it, but for most people, the dial will catch and hold their eye. The stamped texturing brings depth that might have been missing on earlier releases like the sunburst-finished Legacy dials. Even though it’s stamped, I didn’t find that to detract from its beauty; under $1k, I don’t expect tremblage, and the texturing is intricate enough to always capture your gaze. The dials are available in blue, green, silver, orange, and purple (for the Baltimore Ravens), and black — yellow is exclusive to the steel case.

The dial markers and the hands match the case and are completely brushed, muting them a bit against the glossy finish of the dial itself. The seconds hand on every version is a large orange triangle, except on the orange dial, where Tsao has smartly made the outline black. The hands, applied indices, and even the thin 12-hour chapter ring are all lumed with the same Super-LumiNova that shines on the bezel, and it does shine. I’ll tell anyone who asks (and anyone who doesn’t) that there’s no excuse these days at any price point for poor lume, and the Torsk-Diver Professional proves what’s possible. The lume is bright and even across every application.

There’s a small nit to be picked with the date aperture. I like the trapezoid shape that follows the flow of the dial, and obviously, the color matching is a great touch, but those sharp cutout edges look inelegant when viewed up close. I also realize that most people won’t ever look that closely and that there are likely manufacturing obstacles to beveling a texture dial without ruining it. (I think a frame around the date would be out of place.)

Inside the Torsk-Diver Professional beats the Maryland Watch Works MD-1, an automatic assembled, regulated, and tested in Hagerstown, Maryland. The movement is based on the ETA 2824, and you can expect the same reliability thanks to the shared architecture. The MD-1 delivers a 40-hour power reserve at 28,800 vph and is regulated by MWW to -/+8 seconds per day. Visible through a sapphire caseback crystal, the rotor features a custom Maryland flag design in full color against a black PVD rotor.

Filled with texture and color and plenty wearable, the Torsk-Diver Professional is a step up from the chunkier original Torsk Diver. The wide array of colors and two options of case materials should ensure that those who are interested will be able to find a model they like. The Tsao Baltimore Torsk-Diver Professional is priced at $899 USD in both steel and bronze, with each case limited to 423 pieces. For a limited time, all models are available for $800 USD. For more information, please visit the Tsao Baltimore website


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