With one release, Tissot has proven what many brands — maybe most of the industry — wish you didn’t know: Most of the fancy materials they use aren’t actually that expensive. This has been an ongoing trend, with high-end brands introducing a new material and charging a massive premium, quickly followed by that material trickling down until more affordable brands are offering it on non-limited watches. The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Forged Carbon takes its now almost pedestrian namesake material and offers it at a price well below that of many other established brands.
By now, we’ve fully reviewed 13 different Tissot PRX models, including the original trio of quartz models back in 2021. Less than a year after the original launch of the vintage-inspired PRX line, Tissot debuted the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 models with 40mm cases and textured dials that cemented the PRX’s status as an enthusiast icon. That was three years ago and since then, the brand has released a PRX chrono and a number of limited editions. All this is to say that you’re probably very familiar with the PRX by now.
The new Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Forged Carbon is almost identical to the previous models. The PRX Forged Carbon measures 40.5mm wide and 40mm lug-to-lug, with a thickness of 11.2mm. Respectively, that’s an increase of .5mm, .5mm, and .3mm to allow for the forged carbon case. The reason for that increase is that the forged carbon case isn’t entirely forged carbon. Because the material doesn’t lend itself to the internal threading necessary to mount the movement, sapphire, and other components, a black DLC steel core is used, which is standard practice for forged carbon cases at all price points.
There is no detectable difference in size that I found on the wrist between this and other 40mm models (though, you know, maybe Tissot should put 40mm in the model name). It’s angular and wears well, but instead of shiny metal, you get matte, marbled black thanks to the forged carbon. It’s a look that’s undeniably cool and incredibly light, but definitely not for everyone. The watch has a sapphire crystal, 100m of water resistance, and is paired with the same tapisserie pattern rubber strap that matches the dial of the other automatic models but serves well here. Thanks to the strap’s design, smoothly meeting the case at its edges, the potential blocky stance of the watch is mostly avoided.
In fact, I want to highlight an element of the strap that I think makes it better than most rubber options. You’ll note one of the keepers is held in place by notches in the side of the strap, which we’ve seen before. However, the notches are further away from the clasp than I’ve seen on most rubber straps, which makes it less prone to flopping around if the tail gets loose. The other thing is that the tail can’t actually get loose: while you can’t see it, the second keeper has a peg on the underside that slots into one of the free strap holes. The single downside to the strap is that the quick-release pins are very hard to get at, owing to their short length, the angle of the lugs, and the caseback’s protrusion.
More notable than the case itself, and certainly less common in watches, is the forged carbon dial. Here, it works well because it isn’t on its own, but rather creates continuity with the case and yes, even the strap. (While the strap may not be a magical carbon bracelet, it does have a texture that allows it to play in the light a bit, and that carries on from the forged carbon of the case and dial.) The cohesiveness of the entire package is reliant on, and affirmed by, the dial. I truly believe this watch would not be so impressive or attractive without it; the dial is the sine qua non of the watch.
Beyond the marbling of the forged carbon, the dial is identical to the other 40mm PRX models. Like the rest of the series, you’ll find printed minute marks around the peripheral, baton hour markers with slivers of lume, and the exceptional baton handset. I have loved this handset since I first reviewed the original black dial quartz model. The polished outer edges and the brushed channel running between them play beautifully in the light. As you may expect, there are some lighting condisitons that kill the hands, especially the fully polished seconds hand. Another element I like is the applied brand and model name, both of which have a mercury-like quality to them.
Although the dial is, on balance, a success, the lume game is pathetic. While I’ve been able to capture a shot, that’s just to illustrate that there is lume. I’m merely showing you where it is and its design, not providing a demonstration of how it appears in real life (this is how you should treat all lume shots in all reviews, by the way). The reality is far dimmer, especially on the baton markers, which are so pitifully dim that I wasn’t entirely sure if they even had lume. At this point in watch manufacturing, there’s really no excuse for poor lume. If Spinnaker can do it, Tissot should be able to.
At first glance, the PRX Forged Carbon appears to be equipped with the same Swiss-made automatic movement in every other PRX Powermatic model. However, looks and be deceiving and that tiny “Si” in the circle on the balance cock shows us this is a different movement. Whereas the others use the ETA c07.111 movement, the Forged Carbon gets the C07.811 — the Si indicates the silicon hairspring. That should mean more stable timekeeping and a potentially longer service period, though the latter will likely depend on how you wear your watches. The movement is still specced the same however, with an 80-hour power reserve at 21,600 vph.
The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Forged Carbon (Reference T137.907.97.201.00) is priced at $995 USD. That’s a $325 or 47% premium over the PRX Powermatic 80 with a black dial on the same rubber strap. You’re still under $1,000 and you get an upgraded movement and the full forged carbon effect, Many brands charge a higher premium over the steel counterpart and a much higher overall price for just the case and no movement upgrade. For example, Doxa upcharges 56%, Bell & Ross makes you pay 71% more, and Carl F. Bucherer is brazen enough to add an obscene 134% premium. Of all the brands offering forged carbon versions of steel watches, none charge a premium that undercuts Tissot.
At this point, you probably know whether you like the PRX or not. It’s been around for long enough and Tissot has steadily released new iterations to make sure that you won’t forget about it. In any case, the math here is simple: if you like the PRX and like a blackout forged carbon look, you’ll like this watch. Then again, I don’t really care about either and I thought this was a winner through and through. For more information on the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Forged Carbon, please visit the Tissot website.
