The Luminor Due is a type of Panerai watch that simply didn’t exist several years ago. This leaner and more elegant type of timepiece shows how a brand with a distinctive sense of design DNA is trying to evolve and expand its appeal while sticking to a core “look.” It also represents, in my opinion, a real level of increased refinement and sophistication from a brand most noteworthy for making retro-style big sports watch. So, what is the Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 all about, and what makes this 42mm wide model on a bracelet interesting to wear?
For 2024, Panerai has launched an entirely new bracelet design. This is not the first time Panerai has offered bracelets for its watches, but this new bracelet is easily the most comfortable to wear and refined that I have had on my wrist. Panerai offers the new bracelet on a few Luminor model watches so far, with an array of case sizes that include the 38mm wide Luminor Due, the 40mm wide Luminor BiTempo (dual time), this 42mm wide Luminor Due, and the 44mm wide Luminor Marina or Luminor Chrono.
The first Panerai watch bracelets were designed with crescent shapes in the links to evoke the design of the trade dress-protected, locking crown guard system many people associate as synonymous with the brand. It was cool, but pretty chunky and hard to wear. After that, I believe Panerai wanted to simplify the bracelet and make it a bit more comfortable to wear as well as size. That’s when I got curious, and back in 2015, I reviewed a Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 on a bracelet. It was a good experience, but the bracelet was not particularly visually distinctive and the watch was still big and heavy to wear by most standards. Much of that has changed for the better with the Luminor Due and these new bracelets which are quite nice.
Developing a new bracelet is just as hard as developing a new case, in many instances, is more complicated because of the increased number of moving parts. That’s why we don’t see them too often, and why a brand like Panerai is quick to offer the bracelet on a number of different models because it makes little sense to offer it on just one watch after all that research and development. The bracelet returns to the aesthetic of having the crown guard-shaped arches on the bracelet links, and also thinner and more luxurious in its finishing and tactile feel. The links fit together more nicely, and the way the bracelet feels when you run it along your fingers is more akin to what you would expect from an elegant lifestyle sports watch at a higher-end price level. The bracelet also has a quick-release system known more specifically as Panerai’s PAM Click Release System. It allows you to remove the bracelet from the case without any tools.
Most important for me is that the case still uses a traditional securing bar for securing the bracelet or strap. That eliminates the issue I often have with quick-release strap systems, in that they employ proprietary connectors that only allow you to use certain special replacement straps. Here, Panerai protects people who have invested in getting standard 24mm wide straps (from Panerai or otherwise) for their Panerai watches that can easily be used on this Luminor Due 42mm model. In the package, Panerai includes a black rubber strap, in addition to the steel metal bracelet.
One desirable feature the bracelet does not have is a micro-adjust system that allows you to slightly increase or decrease its size. Though I don’t think it is a game changer, the thin size and comfort of the bracelet on its butterfly-style clasp are enough for me. I wanted to mention the screws that Panerai uses in the bracelet. I found that adjusting the size of the bracelet was remarkably easy since you don’t need double screwdrivers or anything like that. The screws in the links are not standard though, as they seem to have an interesting detached head system. My guess is that this is designed to prevent the screws from unscrewing themselves slowly over time, which is a real issue that can occur. Thus, Panerai seems to have effectively engineered a way to make sizing the bracelet quite easy, but also not to have screws that embarrassingly loosen over time with wear. This can also cause a watch to fall off, a situation everybody wants to avoid.
What is the Panerai Luminor Due, versus the standard Luminor? In essence, the Due is a thinner version of the Luminor which retains most of the case’s shape and personality, but in a more elegant and less sporty form. When I say less sporty, I really mean decreased watch resistance. The Luminor Marina’s thicker 15.4mm and 44mm wide case is water resistant to 300 meters, while the Due’s much thinner 10.7mm case is water resistant to 50 meters. In my opinion, once worn on the wrist, many people will opt for the more comfortable and sensible wearing presence of the Luminor Due versus the larger models. This is especially true on the bracelet – which can be difficult to wear comfortably with a top-heavy watch case attached to it. In general, I think it is increasingly obvious to enthusiasts that the heavier a case is, the more likely it needs to be paired with a snug-fitting strap such as rubber. Metal bracelets tend to be uncomfortable when worn too tightly. Thus, the right balance between bracelet and case needs to be taken into consideration if considering a daily-wear timepiece.
Even at 42mm wide in polished steel, the Luminor Due isn’t a small watch. Both the cushion shape of the case and the crown guard mean that the case has a larger, imposing presence on the wrist. Though the relatively thin profile of the case makes wearing it so much better than you might assume. It is interesting to see how Panerai redesigned the Luminor case but retained the visual DNA of the Luminor for fans. I think they did a nice job and much of that has to do with the fact that the dial is still deep, and the overall proportions of the case don’t really feel flattened until you look at the back of it. So it is true, a Panerai can look like a Panerai even with a thinner profile.
Panerai also maintains its iconic-looking dial design with a sandwich-style construction (that has the lume on a separate layer). The legibility is accordingly excellent, as is the beauty of this timeless diver’s style dial. I also really like the new colors Panerai is trying. For a long time, I have championed maroon or burgundy red as a great dial color, which is exactly what you see here. It begins with a sunray-style polish, and a light “degrade” gradient effect going from red to black at the periphery. The dial indicates just the time with a subsidiary seconds dial at 9 o’clock and a date window at 3 o’clock.
Inside the Panerai Luminor Due is Panerai’s caliber P.900 automatic mechanical movement. Nothing too much to discuss about it, aside from the fact that it operates at 4Hz with three days of power reserve. I personally prefer these more simple dials as opposed to the Panerai products that include additional complications. In fact, many of my favorite Panerai models have nothing but two hands on the dial. Overall, I was very impressed by the daily-wear comfort and style of this 42mm wide Panerai Luminor Due on my smaller wrists. It really feels like an elegant dress watch with a sporty character, and the design opens it up to a lot more wearers than your typical beefier and chunkier Panerai product. Panerai was careful not to steal any thunder from its more capable sports watches, but for many people who wear luxury timepieces, I think a product like the Luminor Due is frankly a more sensible option. At the least, it helps open up Panerai to more people than just your standard Paneristi collector base. I’d really like to hear what other people who have tried on this and similar Panerai Luminor Due watches think about it. Price isn’t too wild either. The Panerai Luminor Due reference PAM01539 is priced at $8,300 USD. For more information, please visit the Panerai website.
Necessary Information:
>Brand: Panerai
>Model: Luminor Due 42mm (reference PAM01539 as tested)
>Price: $8,300 USD
>Size: 42mm wide, 10.7mm thick, ~50mm long lug-to-lug distance
>When reviewer would personally wear it: As a sport-style daily wear elegant luxury for formal or social occasions.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Anyone who wants to take a Panerai into the office or somewhere where more formal attire is needed. Or anyone who likes the look of Panerai but finds most of their products to be too bulky.
>Best characteristic of watch: Comfortable and well made. Attractive, with quality bracelet. Price feels remarkably subdued for the brand given the market direction around increases.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Low water resistance means it isn’t actually a sports watch.
