It is an odd trait when one gets to scrutinize and experience a watch not designed specifically for them. Case in point: The Gaga Milano Crystal watches are hardly a natural extension of my style — although I like outlandish watches, especially gem-set ones. Furthermore, I have been waiting for years for the democratization of five and six-figure-priced sapphire-cased watches, and these Gaga Milano Crystal watches appear to have done more or less that.
The Italian brand bombarded my senses with not one, not two, but five Gaga Milano Crystal watches rendered in black, white, matte-navy blue, a poisonous frog-like green, and the star of recent years, a Tiffany blue-inspired turquoise. None, not even the black or the white one, seem to have the intention to offer a single resting point for the eye — everywhere you look, you will find angles, curves, facets, and a bevy of quirky bespoke elements crafted from a wide variety of materials.
We must begin our dive into the many details of the Gaga Milano Crystal watches with the recognition and appreciation of the effort that must have gone into producing such highly bespoke designs. At this price point — i.e. between 1 and 3-thousand USD — the norm is to find off-the-shelf components used for at least some parts of the watches. Crowns, middle cases, casebacks, lugs, hands, straps — these are just some components that are often all too familiar between varied brands and models in this segment. This is because there are only so many affordable OEMs (original equipment manufacturers, i.e. the actual producers of the aforementioned parts) that competing watch brands can find to get these essential parts. On the Gaga Milano Crystal watches, only the hour and minute hands look a bit familiar in their shape, but then they are filled with a bespoke color to match the palette used for the entire watch. The fully color-dipped seconds hand is a nice touch, too, so actually not even the hands could really be called “familiar…”
…And then there is everything else. Wow. I wonder what element of this complex piece is first and second to draw your attention, so let me know in the comments below about that. For me, it was the lugs and the indices, strangely preceding the namesake feature, the transparent case in K9 crystal. The lugs are gigantic, presented with a wide stance as their outermost corners drastically extend in a direction opposite to what you would normally expect. A Patek Philippe Calatrava has as much metal in all four of its lugs as there is in just one of them here. Not stating that as a pro or a con, but it is a fun fact. Frankly, with these wide, heavily angled facets we are looking at a spectacular design that does a lot to transform the comparably timid, round face of these Gaga Milano Crystal watches.
A closer look at the case itself reveals the continuation of this faceted theme: The K9 Crystal exterior is a ribbon of impressive facets, cut to a smooth and flat surface, separated by well-defined, but not unpleasantly sharp edges. The crystal is more than just a thin veneer, too — it extends all the way to the ring that contains the movement and the dial. This means that there is more transparent crystal for light to enter and get trapped inside, creating a more fascinating and qualitative impression. Despite the many facets and thick material, there is relatively little distortion, allowing the wearer a good glimpse into the inner construction of the movement and dial. One can even see the oscillating balance wheel in motion or the teeth around the periphery of the mainspring barrel. A skeletonized watch — extended edition. Too bad the quality and refinement of these parts are not as high as some might expect them to be.
The caseback cannot be made from crystal, as it needs to sit flush and secure against the inner case ring. On the plus side, it is decorated with etched stripes to mimic the facets, and it plays its part in supporting the 10 bar (100m equivalent) water resistance rating. Another important component of that impressive rating is the crown that Gaga Milano says incorporates a “patented double safety o-ring of security.” The crown, located at the 12 o’clock position as a tribute to pocket watches, secures against a rather long threaded stem for added security. It is covered by a K9 crystal cap that, you guessed it, is also faceted. It actually is a nice detail, and so is the fact that the strap has a little indented area to accommodate the crown — something that is only present here, but not on the strap fitted to the 6 o’clock side of the case. If you were wondering, K9 crystal has a claimed Mohs hardness rating of 7, which is higher (i.e. more scratch-resistant) than most stainless steel alloys, but less than sapphire crystal that sits at 9.
The heavily openworked dial on these Gaga Milano Crystal watches consists of a colored outer ring and large, bespoke, color-matched, and apparently hand-drawn Arabic numerals. For some reason, their size, shape, and proportions remind me of a Franck Muller Crazy Hours watch. The absence of a traditional dial reveals a bevy of snailing bridges and openworked plates, littered with little cut-outs for screw heads and jewels. While the lack of a minute track and the large size and busy array of hour markers do compromise accurate legibility, it is not terribly difficult to tell the time here.
According to the brand, the movement, partially revealed by the dial and yet more so by a see-through caseback, is “a Sea-Gull 7510 A, customized in Switzerland for Gaga Milano.” While the habillage (the components that dress up the movement) certainly is special, many of those shopping at this price point will expect to find a Swiss Made movement from the likes of Sellita, Soprod, or others, or at least a movement brought to a higher quality of execution. And, frankly, I wouldn’t blame them.
Brought to a higher standard of finish and execution, the 7510A actually would not be a bad-looking movement. Its construction is creative and playful enough to justify an openworked execution. Dive deep into it, and you will find it to be an industrial movement on the rough side — though, mind you, a certain major Swiss luxury watchmaker is said to perform quality control inspections from 30 centimeters (about 12 inches) away with bare eyes, and always without a loupe. So before you dish out criticisms on a small player, be sure to spare some of your energy for the big players, too. How accurate and reliable this openworked movement will prove to be over extended periods of wear, we cannot tell.
On the wrist, I cannot report any surprises and just say that the 45mm-wide Gaga Milano Crystal watches wear unlike other watches. I will go out on a limb and say that you will have to have the wardrobe and indeed the personality to match these designs — even the black or white ones — otherwise they will look horribly out of place on you. It took me a good while to recall where I might remember a similar wearing experience (let’s just call it that) from the past, and it was with some of Montegrappa’s creations. I must say, some of those were so hilariously out of touch that they brought me tears of laughter. These Crystal watches, not so much, but that may just be for the much-appreciated absence of skulls. It is funny though, how after spending five seconds looking at a Montegrappa, these Gaga Milano watches suddenly look tame and restrained.
From a watch enthusiast’s perspective, I can appreciate the work that must have gone into creating this case, lugs, and dial. All are of complex design and decent execution. The movement is not something die-hard watch enthusiasts will want to get at this price point, but then again, these watches are likely aimed at those who must have this style and/or a see-through case in their lives. For them, there really are not many alternatives out there, at this price point or any other. The Gaga Milano Crystal watches are priced at €1,990 Euros. You can learn more at the brand’s website.
