There’s a sea of opportunity out there for the wayward watch enthusiast. There are tons of “affordable” brands, way too many divers, and far too little variety. The challenge experienced by buyers trying to narrow down their choices is mirrored by brands, which have to (or at least should strive to) create watches that are at once unique and approachable. The watch design process is a lot like being a teenager, wherein you’re desperately trying to become your own person while simultaneously fighting to fit in. What can be exciting is to watch a brand find its footing, evolving from designs that may have missed the mark here or there, and arriving at a model that simply manages to strike the precarious balance between attractive and distinct. That’s exactly what the DiRenzo DRZ 06 Wandering Star achieves, building on the brand’s past models to bring something refreshing, coherent, and joyful.
The DiRenzo DRZ06 Wandering Star has a 38mm stainless case that measures 46mm lug-t0-lug and 10.8mm thick. The flat sapphire crystal precludes any distortion, and the crown is easy to use. The watch gets 100 meters of water resistance, as well as a hardness coating that makes it more than four times more scratch-resistant than uncoated steel. But the most compelling thing about the case is its shape and finishing.
“Organic” is the word that comes to mind. The smooth arc of the polished sides with frosted indents reinforces that, but what immediately pops into my head is the shape of a so-called mermaid’s purse (the pouch in which shark and skate eggs can be easily encountered on sandy beaches in the Eastern U.S). The soft tonneau shape and its brushed surface terminate in an entirely novel lug form. We don’t often see polished lugs on brushed cases, usually because the dominant portion of the lugs is part of the case. Here, though, the lugs are defined by a scooped-out arc, wherein the custom end links on the bracelet and the custom-cut leather straps — all of which are quick-release — attach for a seamless transition. As is true of any case that uses this approach, the case-bracelet/band transition allows an even better wear. I did, however, try the watch on standard straps, and while I expected it to be too blocky (like a Bell & Ross on a non-flared strap), I was pleasantly surprised to find it worked quite well.
It’s not entirely common to encounter a watch that has both a unique case and a unique dial, much less one where both work well. The most dramatic element of the dial, and somewhat of a signature at this point for the brand, is its bowl shape. The outside edge curves down into a wide trough that forms the central dial, separated by cutout arc segments. The bottom layer is a Super-LumiNova disc that shines brightly and extends under the mystery seconds subdial.
That subdial is where the “Wandering Star” name comes from. Appointed with a bright red dot, a transparent disc rotates in lieu of a seconds hand. It’s an easy-to-read display method that adds a fun bit of quirk. I also love the design choice to essentially make it an extended and expanded form of the lollipop hour markers.
DiRenzo creates further consistency by giving the black dial (it’s also available in blue or green) well-defined circular brushing, complementing the bezel and to a lesser extent, the mid-case. The slop of the dial’s edge has a matte finish, which creates a subtle but interesting contrast. I mentioned the lumed sandwich layer: That’s paired with a lumed handset with round ends, ensuring that that there are essentially zero hard angles on this watch. The lume throughout is bright and even, and its look is refined.
Curiously, the DiRenzo DRZ 06 Wandering Star uses a hand-wound movement. Beneath the sapphire caseback crystal, the Sellita SW216-1 in its elaboré execution ticks along at 28,800 vph with a power reserve of 42 hours and a quoted accuracy of -/+7 seconds per day. The choice of a manual movement was intentional and allows the watch to stay thin, which is all well and good. That said, I was surprised by its use given the watch’s design. The forward-looking, unique case and its dial suggest to me a watch that is perhaps a bit sporty as well as high-design. The integrated bracelet reinforces that notion to the point that I firmly believed this watch would and should have an automatic caliber. Then, I started thinking about why I really might have thought that: The fact is that I (and probably you) have stereotyped ideas of what a hand-wound watch should look like and be. Usually, these watches are slim dress pieces or exceptionally complicated pieces with no room for a rotor. However, there’s no reason that the styling of a watch should require one such movement or another. There’s a romance to the hand-wound caliber, the need to engage with it more regularly and intentionally than with an automatic mechanism. That mindful interaction has the potential to create a stronger connection between the wearer and the watch, and I can’t imagine that’s a bad thing.
Some people will dismiss this watch because the style simply doesn’t suit them, which is fine. Others will dismiss it because it’s not an automatic, which is less fine. For those who find the look appealing and are comfortable with the added attention a hand-wound watch needs, the DRZ 06 delivers a design that you won’t find anywhere else, with a near-flawless execution. The DiRenzo DRZ 06 Wandering Star is priced at CHF 810 on leather and CHF 840 on the bracelet; additional leather straps are available for CHF 65 and rubber straps can be added for CHF 60. For more information, please visit the DiRenzo website.
