Indicating just the hours and minutes is classy, especially for a dress watch. I’ve always been a fan of very thin straight hands, and enjoy seeing them used in this watch. While extremely simple, I do enjoy the elegant understated nature of the Pierre Arpels watch face. In white lacquer, the dial has a sort of honeycomb pattern in the middle. The hands and hour markers are in 18k white or pink gold to match the case.
Offered in 18k white or pink gold, the 42mm wide round case of the Pierre Arpels watch is agreeably lovely. It isn’t super unique, nor is it trying to be. What is unique is the single lateral support for the strap as applied to a men’s watch. As opposed to having two lugs, a single support holds the bar that is attached to the strap. Again, this is not at all common to find in men’s watches. Does it work? That is hard to say. I happen to find these types of single lugs interesting, but wouldn’t want to wear them in anything but the most formal of outfits. It doesn’t feel like something that works for casual or even business attire. If you are wearing formal celebratory clothing such as a tuxedo, then I think as a man you could pull this off.
So finally I get to discuss what is new about this watch – the bracelet. Already available on a thin black alligator strap, Van Cleef & Arpels now offers a rather interesting mesh metal bracelet which merits some discussion. Mesh metal bracelets are making a bit of a comeback. Once typical on diver’s watches, you can find mesh metal (aka Milanese) bracelets on a range of timepieces. The IWC Portofino for example offers these as an option. Though the mesh metal bracelet on the Pierre Arpels is unique.
The bottom of these bracelets (the side that touches your skin) is very much like most mesh metal – looking like a series of little chain links. The top side however is flattened. It appears that a very precise melting technique is used to flatten and smooth the bracelet in order to achieve this look yet allow for the bracelet to remain flexible. I don’t believe that this technique is new, but it is very rare to find today, and I’ve yet to see it applied to a men’s watch save for this Van Cleef & Arpels watch.
It is entirely possible that Piaget is actually responsible for this bracelet – as well as the movement in the Pierre Arpels watch. Piaget is among the only watch brands around that still creates such mesh metal bracelets by hand for some of its pieces, and it is likely that they produced this for Van Cleef & Arpels. Again, both of these brands are within the Richemont Group, and shared expertise and service is common in the family. The resulting bracelet is very smooth to the touch and has the appearance of what looks almost like fish or reptile scales. I admit to finding the look intriguing and feel that this unique bracelet pairs well with the watch. Though in solid 18k white or rose gold, it is likely that the bracelet comes close to doubling the price of the watch. While the Pierre Arpels watch on the strap starts at about $15,000, on the bracelet the prices increased to $38,700 in 18k rose gold and $41,400 in 18k white gold. vancleefarpels.com
