Thus, arguably the most valuable aspect of the Royal Oak and Nautilus watches is that they are relatively reliable signs of wealth, and that they are reliably recognized. This means that any watch seeking to earnestly compete with these titans of expensive steel needs to be both distinctive and easy to recognize, as well as controlled enough in the market to get prices close to (or above) the retail price. Each of these elements is directly-related to the ability of the watch to be an authentic luxury object, as well as an authentic statement to the world of being a recognized luxury object.

How does the updated Vacheron Constantin Overseas watch fare in comparison? I won’t focus on price resiliency as the collection is still a bit too new, and the entire industry is facing a distribution and pricing crisis. That would be a conversation for another time. The short answer is that while I am sure various parts of the world have slightly differing prices for the Overseas, it is still a high-end watch with a price to match. The question is whether or not people recognize it as such.

While Vacheron Constantin has been careful to preserve the Overseas’ signature bezel and bracelet design, I’m not sure it is enough to call attention to the collection visually from onlookers. At least in the west, the Overseas has been so uncommon in the wild (in public), I am not sure that enough people know what to look for. Also, aside from the bracelet and bezel, which is more challenging to spot than, for example, that of a Royal Oak, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas doesn’t have too much that is terribly distinctive. That means those wearing it with the intention of showing it off, might find it much harder to find familiar eyes than if they wore the competition. Of course, it isn’t as though Vacheron Constantin has marketed the Overseas in any appreciable manner – so part of this reality is to be expected.

This is a good time to discuss the outgoing generation Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph, which was actually a bit more distinctive. It didn’t have the same type of manufacture movement, and it was a bit more simple overall but the more squat case and easy to recognize bracelet were arguably better than the newer model. Going back to the case, the newer Overseas is more tonneau-style in shape, whereas the older model wasn’t as “long,” which benefited the look while the watch is being worn on the metal bracelet. Thus, even though the newer Overseas is an upgrade in many ways, the new larger Overseas Chronograph might have lost a bit of the visual mojo that made the collection have its distinctive charm.

In terms of size the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph 5500V family is 42.5mm wide (versus 42mm of the older generation) and 13.7mm thick (versus 12.45mm of the older generation). The case is still water resistant to 150m and has a sapphire crystal on the top and bottom. The added thickness especially makes for a rather large sized luxury sports watch. The three-hand Overseas Simple Date is easily the better option if case thickness is important to you. If you want a luxury sports watch and want something rather large, then the Overseas Chronograph is the right option for you. Given that I tend to associate these “high society” steel sports watches as being valued for their thin profile then, in my opinion, the thickness of the Overseas Chronograph makes for a cool looking watch, but not a particularly genteel-feeling watch.

The coolest trick that Vacheron Constantin taught the Overseas was how to swap the bracelet and strap. The Overseas now comes with a tool-less strap removal system, along with three strap/bracelet options per watch. This includes the matching steel bracelet, an alligator strap, and a high-quality rubber strap. Spoiler alert – I found the rubber strap to be both the best looking and the most comfortable.

A small pusher, which can easily cut you if aren’t careful, under each of the lugs allows you to remove the strap relatively easily once you get the hang of it. Though you can see that the joint where the strap and bracelet connect with the lugs is extremely small. This means not a lot of the strap is actually connected to the case. While I found the connection point to be secure, I have concerns about how this system would wear over time. I’m not saying that it would develop issues over time, but I am saying that given the small connection point, it is something that I would be concerned about.

The tapering steel bracelet is comfortable enough, but doesn’t feel like something you’d find on a watch of this pedigree. The links are appreciably more simple in design as compared to the previous generation Overseas, and the deployant clasp is akin to something you’d find on a watch at a fraction of the price. From an ergonomic and construction standpoint, there isn’t anything wrong with the bracelet, but again, it feels like something you’d find on a watch at a mere fraction of the price.

At $30,000 I expect even the deployant on the bracelet to be both interesting and artistically made. The bracelet feels machine finished (I’m not familiar with the actual polishing and finishing technique Vacheron Constantin uses), and there doesn’t appear to be anything hand-done about the bracelet, or any part of the watch’s exterior. When it comes to finishing, a discerning eye will take issue with the exterior of the Overseas Chronograph – especially the bracelet.

For me a luxury sports watch in steel is something that always has an exceptional bracelet option. So to say that for me the Overseas Chronograph felt best off the bracelet and on the strap kinda hurts. I’m not trying to be unkind to Vacheron Constantin, but rather giving them a message that says “I know you can do better, I want you to do better, so please do better.”

Years ago I complained about the design and theme of the Vacheron Constantin Quai de L’Ile personalized watch collection, and within about a year or two the brand discontinued it (and no one has mentioned it ever since until the brand brought the Quai de L’Ile back the way it needed to be without the convoluted dial and personalization element). More so, the brand (at least the people who worked there at the time) actually personally thanked me for forcing them to have a conversation about the watch’s problems internally – a conversation that led to a productive company decision.

I know Vacheron Constantin is going to be irritated with this review of the Overseas Chronograph because I call out various things they are doing which could be improved. It probably won’t occur to them that I spent about 20 hours of my life writing this review, recording a video, and photographing the watch (not to mention actually wearing it and thinking about it). Emotionally invested in their products, they will indeed be understandably hurt. All I can do is remind them that I do this because I like watches and I like brands that make good watches. When a good brand doesn’t make a watch that is as good as I and others expect from them I need to tell them. When no ones gives them feedback, no improvements can ever be made. Vacheron Constantin, you make some incredibly wonderful things so you’ve set the bar for yourself rather high. Now own up to that high bar, and give the competition a serious Overseas that can kick ass.