With three models coming in a total of six variants – each is available either in 18k 5N pink gold or stainless steel – we are looking at the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Self-Winding (again, $11,700-$19,400), FiftySix Day-Date ($17,400-$32,500), and FiftySix Complete Calendar ($21,600-$35,800).

Under $12k for a watch with Vacheron Constantin written on it is a tempting proposition for sure, even if things are never really as straightforward for major brands as picking a target price range and squeezing a product into it. Vacheron currently offers a number of two- or three-hand watches in the Patrimony and Traditionelle collections wrapped in white gold or platinum with prices going all the way up to $38,700 for a hand-wound (!) Patrimony in Pt950. That price would allow you to buy two of these FiftySix Self-Winding pieces, lose both, and buy a third. Even a more basic, white gold Patrimony in 18k white gold (not offered in steel) is some 60% more expensive than the FiftySix Self-Winding in steel.

The genius…

…The village idiot.

So what often happens – not just with watches but for example with luxury cars as well – is that the cheaper product is artificially reduced from greatness. Sure, some will actually prefer the parameters of the cheaper product to those of the more expensive (could be a taste thing or a preference for some tech specs), but the former will nevertheless have been “reduced” in some conscious way. In this instance, the dial on the FiftySix fits into to the range of balanced and elegant dials in the Patrimony and Traditionelle lines the same way a village idiot fits into a family of geniuses.

I remember meaning to talk positives, so let’s get back on that track now. The dial quality is indeed quite good: the large, sharp-cut, hand-applied indices and the thick, neat print are all most welcome features on a high-end watch. Vacheron has also stepped up their game in the sub-dial hand department – even a year ago we could still see poorly stamped and totally flat sub-dial hands on Overseas and other watches. Now they have much more volume to them, finally looking like quality-made, 3D objects, as they always should have been. The only poorly stamped hand remains the center seconds hand – it’s just one large, flat piece… but hey, we’re getting there.

Overall wearability is great – again, the case hardly leaves anything to be desired. All Vacheron Constantin FiftySix watches are 40mm wide – their thickness varies from the 9.6mm of the Self-Winding to 11.6mm for both the Day-Date and Complete Calendar models. That’s a neat way of not having to make 3, just 2 different case sizes. The lugs are rather steeply angled and allow for a tight integration of the supple, but firm alligator leather straps – a trait of good case design and a recipe for ideal wearing comfort.

Beyond the lugs, the 22k gold rotor with a beautifully open-worked Maltese cross is present on all models – definitely one of the most expensive parts in the base priced Self-Winding, and it shows. A major difference not to be ignored is the fact that the Self-Winding pieces – in either case material – do not come with the Geneva Seal (or Hallmark of Geneva), that is reserved for the Day-Date and Complete Calendar models. It is important to note that for a number of years now, the Geneva Seal has gone beyond regulating the aesthetic details of watch movements and extended to how also the entire watch head is finished, as well as to performance issues including accuracy, power reserve, and water resistance – though the latter remains a user-unfriendly 30m. For all you need to know about the Geneva Seal, read our comprehensive article here.

Though the movements do look great from the back, their performance is average at best. Power reserve ranges from 40 to 48 hours – only the Self-Winding models reach two full days. Part of this is likely due to the fact that these appear to be rather old construction movements – as you see above, they appear very small even in a modest 40mm case. For 12, and especially 20 thousand dollars and above, from a brand that calls itself “the Maison,” actual movement performance clearly isn’t something you’ll get to boast about. Unsightly corrector pushers also remain an “iconic” part of these supposedly infinitely refined luxury watches – it’s 2018 and though yes, the self-winding rotor is nice, these pushers from the 1950s, I guess we could say, objectively aren’t. They show a lack of refinement and advancement. Low power reserve, not at all luxurious corrector pushers, and 30m water resistance shouldn’t be allowed in the same sentence as the words Vacheron and Constantin.

Summary

I guess you could say I have a downer on these watches and you know what, I guess you’d be right. I would understand enthusiasm for this collection if this was an easy-to-like watch, but with that dial it isn’t – it’s not even close, not on images and not on the wrist either. The price is low on the most basic steel variant, yes – but we all know Vacheron would rather that you bought something nice for $7k-$10k more from other collections. To my eyes, this collection fades when compared to the viciously elegant, albeit still base level dress watches in the Patrimony and Traditionelle collections. I see the FiftySix line as a mix of decidedly poor dials and mediocre performing movements wrapped into one of the best cases the brand has ever made. Calling it iconic and the brand “the Maison” doesn’t change these aspects of the product, but it will sure help some to overlook them.

The Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Self-Winding is priced at $11,700 in steel and $19,400 in 18k 5N pink gold, the FiftySix Day-Date is priced $17,400–$32,500, and the FiftySix Complete Calendar costs $21,600–$35,800. vacheron-constantin.com