For 2014, Ulysse Nardin continues to move “in-house” by replacing many of its existing watch collections with new ones that include in-house made movements. With the “Perpetual Manufacture” the brand’s perpetual calendar movement gets a full in-house treatment. Previously it was a sort of half and half movement combining an in-house module with something like a base Swiss ETA automatic. To debut the fully in-house made perpetual calendar movement Ulysse Nardin will release the first models as a limited edition set.

Ulysse Nardin has been making in-house movements for quite a while, but most of them have been in their most high-end watches. This includes their various minute repeaters, tourbillons, and range of exotic high-complication timepieces. Only with the caliber UN-118 (hands-on here) finally released in 2012 did Ulysse Nardin begin to produce in-house made movements for their larger collection of watches. The UN-118 has been complimented but a range of other calibers and for 2014 among the various new movements is the caliber UN-32 automatic perpetual calendar and it exists among a rare breed of such to boot. It is also COSC Chronometer certified.

The definition of a perpetual calendar is that it takes into consideration leap years, which means that it will not need to be adjusted until the year 2100. Perpetual calendars also vary in their design and how they indication information. Though most clearly indicate the date, month, and leap year. Many also indicate the phase of the moon, but not this one. However, the UN-32 does have a special trick up its sleeve – it is able to adjust the calendar functions both forward and backwards. Amazingly less than half a dozen perpetual calendar watches made today are able to do that.

That means that you can adjust the perpetual calendar both forward and backwards in time. Attempt this on most perpetual calendar watches and they will either not be able to do it, or will break in the process. The calendar display offers convenient to read windows for the big date, day of the week, month and a year indicator at the bottom of the dial. The latter is the replacement for what would otherwise be the leap year indicator. The system knows which years have longer February months and take those into consideration. So what looks like just another Ulysse Nardin perpetual calendar dial is really something a bit different. The dial also includes a GMT hand with dedicated pushers on the left and right of the case to move the local time either forward or backwards – which makes the Perpetual Manufacture a pretty solid traveler’s watch.

The initial models in the limited edition set will be quite high-end offered only in 18k red gold or platinum cases. The polished cases will be 43mm wide and in a typical Ulysse Nardin design. I like how the dials come together in terms of design and legibility. The dial textures are nice as well. What I am not convinced about right now are the hands. They aren’t bad, but they really don’t look like what we normally see from the brand. They sort of feel a bit thin for the dial. They actually aren’t really too short, but perhaps the narrow style mixed with them being skeletonized makes them feel a bit anemic in an otherwise bold aesthetic presentation. Perhaps my assertion is wrong and when I see the Perpetual Manufacture watches hands-on I will be able to come up with a better determination.

Another new feature on the dial is the “∞” (infinity) character that Ulysse Nardin places over the “Perpetual” label. Perhaps we will see this on all perpetual calendar watches from the brand moving forward. Overall the piece is very interesting and I look forward to checking it out more soon. Ulysse Nardin will produce the Perpetual Manufacture as a limited edition of 250 pieces total. I imagine that is 125 piece in each metal. ulysse-nardin.com

Technical data from Ulysse Nardin

– Ref. 322-10 (red gold), 329-10 (platinum)
– Limitation: 250 pieces
– Movement Caliber UN-32, 34 jewels
– Power Reserve: Approx. 48 hours
– Winding: Self-winding chronometer movement with official rating certificate (C.O.S.C).
– Functions: Perpetual Calendar adjustable over single crown. Second time zone on main dial with a patented quick setting mechanism. Permanent home time indicated by 3rd hand. Big date in double window.
– Case: Available in 18 ct. red gold or platinum
– Dimensions: 43 mm
– Water-resistance: 30m
– Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
– Case-back: Sapphire crystal
– Crown: Water-resistant
– Band: Leather strap with folding buckle