Ulysse Nardin purchased the movement from Swiss Ebel. In fact, they didn’t just purchase the designs to the movement, but also the machine tools and five of Ebel’s production staff to help them produce what was formerly known as the Caliber 137. Ebel created the 137 in the mid 1990s and apparently it was they who approached Ulysse Nardin a few years ago to buy it. It made sense for Ulysse Nardin because it was a solid movement and it was the right time for them to produce a chronograph. Ulysse Nardin further reports that it took about two years of tweaks and changes including upgrades to the movement before they could begin any type of serious production. One of these changes of course is the inclusion of a silicon versus metal hairspring. The automatic rotor looks great as well.
The Marine Chronograph Manufacture watches are still 43mm wide, but thicker than the Marine Chronometer models because of the movement. It is available in a steel and titanium case as well as 18k rose gold with either a black or silver dial (not counting the limited edition pieces). Compared to older models the dials on the standard series have been tweaked and this is decidedly a new watch, not just an older collection with a new movements. Ulysse Nardin brand DNA flows heavily as the dials borrow form vintage marine chronometer clocks heavily. I also like the “fat” subsidiary hands, as well as the fact that they too have applied luminant on them.
The model without any luminant is the limited edition model, and it is available on all strap types including the rubber strap, black alligator strap, and solid 18k rose gold bracelet. Each of those version is limited to 150 pieces. The cases of these watches only comes in 18k gold. With a classic look, the beautiful dial is both enamel and in-house made. Several years ago in 2011 Ulysse Nardin acquired the fine dial maker Donze Cadrans. The dials are grand feu enamel and very pretty if you prefer a more traditional dial design with modern case.
A luxury watch through and through, there is a sporty attitude that appeals to me in these watches. Ulysse Nardin timepieces rarely feel stuffy to me, so I appreciate the mixture of elements here. Many people who buy watches are this level could care less where the movement came from, so long as it is pretty. Some merely want to know that the movement is Swiss and fewer still care that the brand itself made it. When it comes down to it, Ulysse Nardin did not begin to produce the UN-150 as a means to increase prices or perceived prestige. It was done as a market necessity because their old source for movements was going away and it would have been an unthinkable option to no longer provide quality chronograph watches. The end result is a happy story and the better news is that more in-house made movements are coming soon. Price for the Marine Chronograph Manufacture watch in steel/titanium is $12,700 – $13,600, $34,900 – $51,100 for the standard 18k gold model and $39,800 – $56,300. ulysse-nardin.com
