Montblanc Meisterstuck Heritage Chronograph

Montblanc had an impressive showing at SIHH this year, with a new line of vintage-inspired models that could very well breathe new life into the brand and attract a whole new segment of buyers and collectors. They call this line the “Meisterstück Heritage” collection, and it features new pieces that range from a slim two-hand automatic to a stunning and affordable Perpetual Calendar. All in all, it is a very handsome collection overall. But my choice for “best in show” goes to the absolutely drop-dead Meisterstück Pulsograph. It also happens to be the first time Montblanc has incorporated a Villeret movement in a non Villeret timepiece.

Finished in an attractive shade of red gold, the Pulsograph is sized at 41mm – not terribly large, but substantial enough to make a statement. The dial features twin subsidiary registers set against a multi-toned dial with silver sunburst center. Running around the outer track is a graduated Pulsations scale, originally devised for medical use. The chronograph, which features a central seconds hand and a 30 minute counter at 3:00, is operated via a mono-pusher, adding to the vintage charm this piece espouses.

As elegant as this timepiece is outwardly, it is the mechanical complexity of the in-house Montblanc Villeret (formerly Minerva) movement ticking on the inside that pushes it over the edge from being simply beautiful to downright desirable. The Minerva movement is a masterpiece of form and function, and the Pulsograph is the only timepiece in the collection to feature it (thus far). Limited to only 90 pieces worldwide, these likely won’t last because this is one of the most affordable MB Villeret watches today, so if you dig it as much as I do, you’d best get on it. Priced from $34,500. ~James Lamdin

Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar QP a Equation

Speaking of ultra-high end unattainable timepiece, there is always Greubel Forsey to tease and tempt us. For 2014, Greubel Forsey has created one of a very small number of perpetual calendar complications that can be adjusted both forward and backwards in time. For as complicated as we know Greubel Forsey timepieces to be, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar QP a Equation is wonderfully simple in its operation.

It works using a simple principle: when in “QP” mode you turn the crown forward in one direction to set the date forward, and the other direction to set it backwards. There are no individual pushers for each of the indications, and when you set the calendar the month, day, and date all move in tandem. Hands-on it is the most viscerally pleasing QP watch to operate and from a legibility perspective it is hard to beat.

Then again, it does cost rather north of half-a-million dollars for the privilege. The distinctive Greubel Forsey design houses an included tourbillon, as well as what many people argue is the most impressive movement finishing on the planet. Priced at 670,000 Swiss Francs. ~Ariel Adams

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica 11

Technical marvels in the watch world are sadly becoming rarer and rarer from the major brands as they focus on timepieces with the most marketability. Nevertheless, we know that Jaeger-LeCoultre is a reliable source for beautiful and innovative high-end creations that have lasting appeal. Announced prior to SIHH, the Hybris Mechanica 11, otherwise know as the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, is a tour-de-force of design restraint as only the Swiss can do it.

In a slim case the Hybris Mechanica 11 houses an automatic movement with a peripheral rotor seen through the dial, a flying tourbillon, and Jaeger-LeCoultre just happens to throw in a minute repeater as well. All in a package that looks like a dress watch with a few additional visual features. This is the making of a true grail watch from a brand known for pushing the envelope technically while still retaining a sense of good taste. Jaeger-LeCoultre comments on the value by offering a “Price Upon Request.” ~Ariel Adams

Panerai Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio PAM579

For a brand that focuses on its heritage, Panerai also knows how to adapt to the times. Having said that, “new” is a relative term for lovers of the brand. 2014 sees a lefty version of a modern chronograph that looks a lot like it came out of the past. The neat vintage looks of the PAM579 add a warm sense of character to a modern in-house made Panerai movement. The caliber P.2004/9 has a monopusher column-wheel based chronograph and eight days of power reserve. More so, the movement operates at a modern 28,800 bph frequency and despite being manually wound has a power reserve indicator on the back of the movement.

While the iconic 1950-style case is large at 47mm wide, it is light, being produced in titanium. With the lefty-style orientation of the crown, one no longer needs to worry about it sticking into your wrist (on your right hand). Either by accident or intent, Panerai created a beautiful, technically desirable, and comfortable watch in one fell-swoop with the Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio PAM579 watch – just don’t try saying the name too often on a single breath. Priced at $22,500 ~Ariel Adams

Piaget Altiplano 900P

The race to make the thinnest mechanical timepiece isn’t something that ever really interested me. Sure, there is a general attraction and appreciation for mechanical miniaturization – after all, we are all wristwatch enthusiasts – but the compulsion to make them thinner, and thinner, and thinner is something I never quite “got.” Until I put on the Piaget 900P Altiplano.

In the world of fine timepieces, there are plenty of things that simply don’t come across in photos; how a watch catches the light, how a dial’s texturing can completely alter your perception, or how it feels on your wrist. Many times I have had my mind changed simply by strapping something on my wrist…for better or worse.

In the case of the 900P, it is most certainly for the better. At 3.65mm in thickness, the manually winding piece is the thinnest mechanical watch in the world by a fair margin. But it is in no way flimsy or fragile. In fact, it is downright substantial in its own way. The 18k white gold case is 38mm in diameter, making it perfect for daily wear as either a dress piece or for casual use. The dial, which is in truth part of the movement itself, is exceedingly beautiful to look at, and has a very high tech look to it, giving it some real balls. This is an ultra-thin that checks all the boxes for a big sports watch lover like me. I’ll take it. Priced around $25,000 ~James Lamdin

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “26470”

A big theme this year at SIHH was the downsizing of popular watches – not in terms of production, but also in case size. The iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore may be the most notable example of this slimming trend, as the brand just launched a new collection of the ROO in its original size – 42mm.

By no means a small watch, the new 2014 line of Offshores carries all the signature cues of the line – thick case made with high-end materials (including rose gold and ceramics), octagonal bezel, Mega Tapisserie dial, and integrated bracelet/strap design. New for 2014, are the addition of a ceramic crown and pushers, as well as a sapphire display back, long clamored for by collectors.

While the “standard” size 44mm Royal Oak Offshores aren’t going anywhere, this new collection of 42mm models represents and important shift in thinking from the original name in luxury sports watches, and is no doubt one of the most significant unveilings of the year. And it’s pretty darn cool looking, too. Priced from $25,600. ~James Lamdin