No matter how capable, rugged, or complicated they may be, in this modern age, mechanical watches are still emotional machines at their core. Virtually every aspect of timekeeping can be handled more efficiently or affordably than an old-school mechanical wristwatch can provide, but despite it all, there’s something that always draws us as enthusiasts back. With enough time in the hobby, then, nearly every enthusiast has at least one sentimental watch. For me, my sentimental watch bond isn’t through a family member or a loved one; it’s the watch that helped me to launch my career in this incredible industry. Beyond kickstarting my life in watch media, the mid-‘70s Seiko 6138-8039 “John Player Special” shaped my taste in timepieces, has been a reliable companion for as long as I’ve been in the hobby, and remains a genuinely underrated classic sports chronograph in its own right.
Back in the summer of 2014 (a full decade ago, now), I was writing some of my very first watch content for another major watch media site after making the jump from automotive journalism. As part of my series on watches and Formula One, I highlighted the Seiko 6138-8039, noting the similarity to the beloved black and gold John Player Special livery used by the Lotus team in the ‘70s and ‘80s, as well as the impressive value for the money. This was the first time any article of mine had received such an immediate and powerful public reaction, and from then on, I knew I needed to make watches my primary focus. In addition, it helped to spark my love for vintage-style racing chronographs, and ever since, I’ve been sure to have a 6138-8039 in my collection at all times.
As for this particular example, it’s been well-worn over the years but is still in remarkably good, unpolished shape. At 40mm wide and a prominent 14mm thick, the Seiko 6138-8039’s barrel-style stainless steel case is tall and compact on the wrist. Virtually lugless and featuring sloping, crisply faceted case sides, this case gives Seiko an array of broad, smooth planes to showcase its linear brushing and polishing prowess. The sharp, narrow polished bezel adds some welcome contrasting angles to this form, as well, ensuring that there’s nearly always at least one dynamic reflection from any viewing angle. It may feel a bit top-heavy by modern standards, but the sheer ‘70s funkiness of the design gives it character on the wrist.
While the Seiko 6138-8039’s case might split opinions, its dial is balanced, striking, and arguably one of the most underappreciated examples of ‘70s racing chronograph dial design. The simple, punchy black and gold color palette instantly grabs attention on the wrist, with large rounded-square chronograph subdials at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock that give this gold accent hue ample room to shine. As a side note, some examples of this model have subdials with a pronounced vertically brushed finish, but this particular piece has the more subdued matte gold subdials. By contrast, the inner chapter ring uses a brighter, more pronounced radially brushed gold, adding visual depth and variety to an already impressively layered design. Although the day/date window at 3 o’clock has the potential to markedly disrupt the overall layout, the applied gold Seiko emblem at 9 o’clock forms a deft and effective visual counterweight. Overall, it’s a sharp, balanced dial design, with a pleasingly busy feel that avoids coming off as overwrought or overcrowded.
Naturally, the movement inside the Seiko 6138-8039 is the brand’s own 6138 automatic chronograph movement. Developed as an evolution of the groundbreaking (and arguably first-ever) 6139 automatic chronograph, the 6138 is more robust, more functional, and remains impressively appointed even by modern standards. A 45-hour power reserve and 21,600 bph beat rate may not be world-beating in 2024, but by ‘70s standards, this is a true contender of a powerplant. It also includes both a column wheel and a vertical clutch, making chronograph actuation sharp, precise, and pleasingly heavy during operation. This particular movement may be roughly 50 years old, but it remains reliable and easy to live with, offering an accuracy of around +20 seconds per day and one of the best chronograph operations of any vintage chronograph I’ve ever owned.
This particular Seiko 6138-8039 is paired with its original two-tone three-link bracelet, as well. Finished in stainless steel and yellow gold plate, this tapering square-link design is old-school light, and flexible on the wrist, with light wear on the plated gold center links for a sense of charismatic patina. The folded link structure and stamped folding clasp might put this bracelet squarely in the ‘70s in terms of build quality, but it remains a fun and punchy visual statement.
At the core, mechanical watches in the modern age are sentimental machines – these are tools that exist not because they’re the most capable or most affordable implements for the job, but because we as enthusiasts genuinely love them. There are few watches that I personally have loved as long and as much as the Seiko 6138-8039 “John Player Special,” and few watches that have ever given me as much in return. It’s no exaggeration to say that without the watch pictured here, I wouldn’t be writing this article over a decade after my first foray into watch media. In addition to its personal significance, it’s still an impressively affordable and well-appointed vintage sports chronograph and a stirring reminder to even the most coldly transactional enthusiasts that there’s room for a little love in every collection.
