As a watch brand, the next stage after opening a boutique is to release models that can only be bought from that boutique. Limited editions are a much debated subject in the watch industry. Some brands produce them very rarely, others so often that it is almost harder to find a basic stock model. If you can limit not only the numbers but where the pieces can be bought, these watches sit that little bit higher on the collector’s desirability list. Not only that, but you can be sure that the price is maintained with only the most modest discount being given to regular clients.

The boutique exclusive watch was around as far back as 1993 when Bulgari released a limited edition gold and black plastic version of their Bvlgari Bvlgari watch. Each boutique sold a version with its own city name and this coupled with the unusual combination of gold and plastic meant the watch sold out fast. Today’s boutique exclusives tend to be a little higher on the price scale than plastic and gold and almost every prestige watch brand now produces them to leverage the power of their own retail channel. Breguet produced a rose gold version of their Revéil du Tsar with a specially designed enamel dial. Vacheron Constantin produces exclusive models of their Patrimony Contemporaine, Overseas, Métiers d’Art and others. Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique-only models include their Stainless Steel Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual and the Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph. IWC produce boutique-only models from their Ingenieur, Big Pilot and Portuguese families and so the list goes on. This is the ultimate in brand control and a trend that we will only see more of as the number of boutique openings increases and more brands get the feel for direct retail.

The Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar boutique exclusive from 2010 is the pictured watch which neatly brings me to a final observation. At present, watch brands only control the new retail market for these watches. The pre-owned market, including watch auctions, is a great place to hunt down ‘sold-out’ models or other rarities. Who knows, buying pre-owned whether retail or at auction may, also give you that elusive discount off RRP that is so hard to get from the brands themselves.

Contributed by Adrian Hailwood who is the Watch Business Manager at Fellows Watch Auctions.