Over the course of the past couple of years, the watch market has grown and evolved. The number of consumers has skyrocketed, and with that proliferation comes an elevated familiarity with signature models from key manufacturers. However, the collective focus of the horological horde remains mostly on sports models. With concentrated attention being paid to timepieces intended for undersea pursuits, travel, or motorsports, the humble three-hand dress watch sits silently in the background. Always looking to bring such pieces to the forefront is German manufacturer, NOMOS Glashütte. Now, the introduction of its new platinum gray Tangente is sure to show the world why dress watches should share the spotlight.
In 1990, NOMOS Glashütte was founded by Roland Schwertner. In the heart of its namesake city, NOMOS began manufacturing dress watches with subtle styling and keen attention to detail. Over the course of the past quarter-century, NOMOS has gained notoriety and subsequently become Germany’s largest manufacturer of mechanical timepieces. The Tangente has been a svelte member of the NOMOS lineup since the company’s inception. In fact, the Tangente was the first model introduced, and it remains as relevant and stylish today as it was 20 years ago. For the first time in this history, it is now available in a platinum gray colorway. This neutral coloration perfectly highlights the features that make this flagship favorite the watch that perfectly encapsulates NOMOS’s design philosophy.
The platinum gray Tangente Neomatik is available in two sizes – 35mm and 39mm diameter. This allows for any interested party to find a size that fits the wrist perfectly. The case shape of the tangent is perfectly circular, and thus void of angles. The lugs, however, are quite thin and angular. The blend of organic and sharp lines is the calling card of the Tangente. The angle of the lugs, in particular, provides more than just visual interest. The downward trajectory of the lug ends ensures that it forms to the shape of the wrist more appropriately. External lug holes are present for easy strap changes as well, which is fitting, as this is a timepiece that will look right at home on a number of fabrics and textures.
The technical prowess of NOMOS is evident in the construction of the movement powering the Tangente. The in-house Neomatik caliber DUW 3001 is a saber-thin self-winding mechanical marvel. Measuring only 3.2mm tall, it is regulated to consistently provide a high level of precision. This is, in large part, thanks to NOMOS’ in-house escapement, the swing system. Unveiled at Baselworld in 2014, the NOMOS swing system was the key to the company becoming fully independent. Nowadays, this movement powers the majority of models in their lineup. With a power reserve up to 43 hours, this Tangente is sure to be ready for business each time you reach for it.
For the first time in Tangente history, this particular iteration is available with a solid caseback. Given the visual appeal of the Neomatik movement, there is the option for a sapphire display caseback, as well. The former represents an opportunity for cost-saving as well as engraving, should you want to add a personal touch. The stone-like texture of the platinum gray dial is achieved by the artisans at NOMOS through a rhodium galvanization process. The result is a slate hue that contrasts nicely with the signature Bauhaus aesthetic that the brand has come to be known for. Precise printing of the numerals and lettering throughout the watch face further add to the crisp appearance. The running sub-seconds at six o’clock features a concentric circular pattern. Multiple complementary colors are used for the typeface across the dial. The thin, Arabic numerals are an inky black, while the minutes on the outer track are clad in a deep gray. The only other color present is the gilded “Neomatik” lettering, positioned just south of 12 o’clock.
There is a reason, in fact, a slew of reasons, why the Tangente has weathered the test of time. It is, at this point, synonymous with NOMOS. The option of two different case sizes, as well as caseback options, allows consumers to tailor the timepiece to their need. The somewhat Spartan nature of the dial, coupled with the thin outer bezel, allows for a generous wrist presence for a watch of this size. The proprietary movement and ultra-thin profile ensure effortless wearability in casual and professional settings. The 35mm Tangente in platinum gray is priced at $3,070 USD with the solid caseback, while the display option will run $3,460 USD. For the same options in 39mm, the prices are $3,390 USD or $3,780 USD, respectively. If you are in the market for a totally in-house timepiece that is sure to stand out from the crowd, take a look at the NOMOS offerings and see what makes them tick.
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