Welcome to the very first edition of our newest biweekly series: The Flyback. In each edition of The Flyback, we’ll take a quick look at some of the new releases we didn’t get a chance to cover in the preceding two weeks. For this first batch, we’re looking back a bit further than we usually will, to the very end of 2024. We’ve got a new GMT from Chicago-based Oak & Oscar, a handful of sapphire stunners from Richard Mille, a new Breitling colorway, a blue IWC Ingenieur, and a glacial Grand Seiko.
Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition
In collaboration with the St. Louis County Rescue Squad, Oak & Oscar has made a few tweaks to its Humboldt GMT to create a Search and Rescue (SAR) Edition, built off the original blue-dial model. This 50-piece edition swapped the steel 24-hour bezel for a lumen ceramic compass bezel and enhanced the sandwich dial by adding lume behind the inner ring. Otherwise, the Sellita SW330-powered watch remains the same, with bright pops of orange complemented by an orange rubber strap. Gone in a flash! The Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition was priced at $2,350 USD and limited to 50 pieces. For more information, please visit the Oak & Oscar website.
Richard Mille RM 07-02 Sapphire Collection
Nobody asked, but Richard Mille did it anyway. (That’s my submission for RM’s nonexistent slogan contest.) In December, the brand dropped four new versions of its RM 07-02 sapphire watch, in pink or green, with your choice of tiny strips of diamonds, or not. RM says the RM 07-02 watches take 1000 hours of machining, including 350 just to polish the case, and that there’s quite a lot of work to set them with diamonds. There is a market for these, I have to assume, amongst the ultra-wealthy, but if I were one of them, I’d be asking why the band isn’t a sapphire bracelet. The Richard Mille RM 07-02 Sapphire Collection watches are limited to 7 pieces each, with pricing on request (but undoubtedly in the mid-to-high six figures). For more information, please visit the Richard Mille website.
Breitling Super Chronomat 44 and Chronomat Automatic 36 Caribbean Editions
It’s unclear whether it was trying to aim these at snowbirds heading to warmer climes this winter or just get a jump start on Spring/Summer ’25, but Breitling released two light blue dials it’s calling Caribbean Editions. The brand highlights that the pieces are part of its 140th anniversary celebration, but I think they’d be suited as regular instead of limited releases (100 for the 36, 150 for the chrono). Both watches get COSC movements and have maps of the Caribbean islands on their casebacks. I think the black register, black bezel chronograph is the real winner of the pair, especially with the rubber Rouleaux strap. The Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Caribbean Edition is priced at $9,950 USD and limited to 150 pieces while the Chronomat Automatic 36 Caribbean Edition is priced at $5,400 USD and are exclusively available in Caribbean boutiques, including some cruise ships. For more information, please visit the Breitling website.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in Blue
In one of the more predictable releases of the last year (or maybe of the last 20 years), IWC released a blue dial variant of its smash hit Ingenieur, which was finally revived in 2023. This watch always seemed to be a matter of when, not if, and it looks like the brand nailed it. The textured dial looks great in this deep shade of blue, and a bit more subtle than it does in the teal or even silver dials. 40mm case, 100m WR, and 120-hour power reserve? Let’s go. The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in blue is priced at $11,700 USD. For more information, please visit the IWC website.
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 3600 SBGH349
The job of a Grand Seiko dial designer must be equal parts exciting and stressful. A bounty of reference points seems to await just out the window, but it must also come with the constant fear of running out of inspiration (What if you have to leave the office to find a beautiful vista?). The new 40mm SBGH349 in titanium has a dial inspired by “the mesmerizing frozen cascades of Mount Iwate” and features the brand’s hi-beat automatic 9S85 movement with a 55-hour power reserve. It seems the well of inspiration that is Mt. Iwate hasn’t run dry just yet. The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 3600 SBGH349 is priced at $7,400 USD. For more information, please visit the Grand Seiko website.