In this current age of vintage reissues, many brands across the watch industry are dedicated to capturing the heritage and feel of bygone eras in modern designs. For brands with extensive back catalogs, this can take the form of reinterpreting classic past models, but a lack of longevity hasn’t stopped younger brands from participating in the trend as well. For a brand without its own vintage models to draw on, however, this can take one of two forms. The young brand can ape the style of another brand’s vintage design, attempting to interpret a recognizable watch in its own way, or it can aim to create something that emulates the feel of a certain time period without referencing any particular watch. Relative newcomer Szanto has made a specialty out of this second approach, taking loose, retromodern interpretations of stylistic periods for its stable of vintage inflected sports watches. The latest in this line is the Desert Sands series, a line of chronographs blending new and old influences that aims to capture both the feel of ‘40s military chronographs and the spirit of the British Army’s “Desert Rats” in their fight across North Africa during World War II. The new Szanto Desert Sands line is a loose and playful take on mid-century military watch themes, offering solid durability and finishing at an accessible price point.
Measuring in at 41mm, the stainless steel form of the Szanto Desert Sands series takes a simple, classic modern military chronograph approach. The narrow sloping bezel, inverted pushers, and oversized crown are all familiar elements to enthusiasts, but Szanto gives this shape a unique personality with ion plating. The black ion plated variant gives the design a tough and stealthy edge, but the Desert Sands’ more interesting look is likely the “Aged Gold” ion plated model. With a deep, nuanced tone and flecks of darker material interspersed in the dull gold surface, this finish nicely echoes the look of vintage brass cases after the original chrome plating has worn away. That distinctive finish is more complex than one might expect at this price point, and it helps to ground this more modern case shape in the ‘40s fantasy Szanto is creating with this series. Water resistance for the Desert Sands is a modern 100 meters.
Like the cases, the dials of the Szanto Desert Sands series use a blend of retro and modern elements to capture a general feeling of age, rather than directly emulating any particular vintage design. With a slightly undersized pair of Roman sword hands, a distinctive set of printed serif Arabic numerals, and a pair of clean and elemental chronograph subdials, the basic design has a strong, unique character in initial images. As the name suggests, all dial variants in the Desert Sands line employ a vintage-inflected sandy khaki tone, either for the main dial surface or for the lume fill in the case of matte black dial models. One of the most interesting flashes of character in this vintage-inspired look is the integration of the date window, framed entirely within the loop of the 6 o’clock numeral. This slick touch keeps the date display from disrupting the overall flow of the dial, allowing it to fade into the background especially for black-dial models.
Inside the Szanto Desert Sands line beats the Miyota 6S21 quartz chronograph movement. Tough and affordable, the 6S21 may not be a full mecaquartz movement like some of its industry rivals, but still offers wearers much of the experience of a mechanical chronograph. The central chronograph seconds hand beats four times per second rather than the once-per-second jump of traditional quartz, and the heart cam reset system allows the 6S21 to instantly reset like a mechanical movement and gives the pushers the tactile snapping feel of a mechanical design. Accuracy is rated at +20/-20 seconds per month. Szanto finishes the Desert Sands series with calf leather straps in saddle tan for black cased models and a deeper tobacco brown for the “Aged Gold” variant.
Affordable, playful, and charismatic, the new Szanto Desert Sands series offers a fun take on classic mid-midcentury military chronograph themes with a handful of unique touches. The Szanto Desert Sands series is available now through authorized dealers at an MSRP of $295. For more information, check out the brand’s website.
