Since Seiko first announced the Presage Sharp Edged Series in 2020, this angular sub-line has become one of the cornerstones of its mid-range lineup, combining Grand Seiko-esque angular case geometry and elaborately patterned layered dials at a roughly $1,000 price point. As the series approaches its third anniversary, the Japanese giant aims to refine and evolve the core Sharp Edged concept with a facelifted new design while introducing a slightly more capable new movement to the brand’s roster. Although the new Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB415 and Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB417 are both instantly recognizable as Sharp Edged designs, the brand’s new visual tweaks and the eye-catching new open heart displays make these models a potential beacon for the stylistic future of the series.

Both the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB415 and the Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB417 share the same stainless steel case design. Measuring in at a moderate 40.2mm-wide and 13.5mm-thick, this (appropriately) sharp, angular case form gives the design an array of broad planes to showcase its finishing in images. Both the case sides and the long, gradually tapering upper lug surfaces offer crisp, even brushing, while a broad sloping case side chamfer complements this finishing with a brighter polished swath. Seiko naturally highlights the dials of these models with a narrow polished bezel, framing the crystal with a brighter polished ring in photos. This sapphire crystal is another new addition for these models, with a double domed profile that brings welcome curvature to the largely planar form. A signed pillbox crown at 3 o’clock continues the case’s quality finishing, framing the raised polished “S” emblem with a clean matte blasted recessed area. Seiko completes this case with a sapphire display caseback and rates the watch for a respectable 100 meters of water resistance.

Seiko gives the Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB415 and the Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB417 distinctive personalities through their dials. Both models share the same overall dial layout, which iterates on the base Sharp Edged concept with the line’s distinctive clipped dauphine handset and its signature asanoha geometric hemp leaf-inspired dial texture. However, Seiko frames these familiar elements with newly reinterpreted stylistic choices. For example, the grooved and polished applied indices abandon the simple rectangular shape of previous Sharp Edged models, in favor of a pointed, sloping wedge-like form that better suits the series’ name. Likewise, the seconds is reprofiled here with a new, keenly pointed counterweight design and a downturned tip. A recessed azurage subdial at 6 o’clock gives these models a balanced 24-hour indicator while adding some textural variety to the layout, but the real visual highlight in images is the 9 o’clock open heart dial cutout. Open heart displays are almost always contentious additions for enthusiasts, but Seiko goes beyond framing the beating escapement here by adding a delicate and intricate skeletonized metal latticework across most of the aperture, visually continuing the dial’s asanoha pattern and ratcheting up the visual complexity in images. From here, Seiko takes the two models in markedly different stylistic directions. As is so often the case with Seiko’s higher-end dial offerings, both models are inspired by traditional Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship, and go through a multi-stage dial finishing process including stamping, color gradation, and lap coating. The SPB415 is the subtler and more classical of the pair, with a pale off-white hue called shironeri inspired by the color of unbleached silk. By contrast, the SPB417 is far richer and more complex, featuring a deep cobalt blue gradient fading nearly to black at the dial edge. Seiko refers to this visually deep dial color as aitetsu, or indigo iron.

Seiko powers both the Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB415 and the Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB417 with its new in-house 6R5J automatic movement. This is the newest member of the venerable 6R family of movements, and Seiko proudly proclaims this new iteration offers an increased power reserve of three days, or 72 hours. While the 6R5J’s 72 hours of power reserve at a 21,600 bph beat rate is certainly nothing to scoff at, it’s worth noting that previous iterations such as the 6R35 provided 70 hours of power reserve, so the actual increase here is rather small. To complete both watches, Seiko pairs them with a handsome three-link stainless steel bracelet. The brand gives this classic bracelet pattern its own twist in images with polished accents on the center links, along with a butterfly clasp.

With upgraded movements, handsome colorways, and a refined, more holistic take on the series’ central look, the new Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB415 and Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB417 subtly evolve the series while offering a glimpse at the visual future of the line. Both the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB415 and the Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB417 will be available through Seiko boutiques and select retail partners in June 2023, and both models carry an MSRP of $1,200 USD as of press time. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.