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Japanese watch manufacturer Orient established its higher-end Orient Star brand in 1951 “from a desire to create a mechanical watch that would become a brightly shining star in every aspect, from its design and movements to its manufacture and assembly.” Over the past seven decades, the brand has stayed true to its original ideals and managed to do so while following the latest trends and desires of its fanbase. A case in point is the fresh Orient Star Basic Date Automatic with a Sallaz-polished exterior.
Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of the Orient Star Basic Date Automatic (reference RE-AU0404N, as seen here, or RE-AU0404N for short) is that it’s a watch to appeal to customers just discovering the complex universe of watchmaking, looking for a do-it-all watch in the process that combines a mechanical heart with an exterior to push the limits of its segment. As such, this watch is at the narrow intersection of timepieces that attract novice watch lovers and also meet the strict requirements of highly experienced enthusiasts.
Here is what makes the Orient Star Basic Date Automatic a great watch for the uninitiated. The RE-AU0404N has a solid case and bracelet construction designed to feel robust and solid, completely replacing the inferior feel of hollow end links and loosely fitted links. The watch is made in Japan — both the case and the movement are labeled as such — and this label brings with it the notion of superior quality and reliability. It’s a self-winding watch with a see-through back that allows one to appreciate the mechanical heart of their new watch, an important point to those not too far into their watch-collecting hobby just yet. In addition to all that, it also boasts two essential comfort features: A date window and a power reserve indicator, the latter being borderline exotic outside of Orient Star but still within this price segment.
For a true only-watch designed to serve as a daily wearer, the Orient Star Basic Date Automatic offers an easy-to-read display of time. Particular attention has been paid to getting the hands sized perfectly — no corners have been cut, and so this slightly larger-cased version of the Basic Date received its own set of extended hands. As a special trait, both the hour and minute hands are multi-faceted, another absolute rarity in this segment, much more common in watches priced well into the four and five figures. These beautifully decorated surfaces aid legibility by almost always having a facet facing into the light, while others contrast against the sunburst-finished backdrop of the dial — which is available in gray, as seen here, as well as in dark blue, green, white, and black.
What might stand out to more seasoned watch enthusiasts from Orient Star emerges with a closer look. The Orient Star Basic Date Automatic in this configuration has a 42mm case in stainless steel decorated with the brand’s trademark Sallaz polishing technique. Orient Star’s advancements in case quality are in no small part thanks to Masatoshi Endo, who was appointed as president of Akita Epson Corporation in 2016. Endo joined Orient in 1982 as a die repair person, yet another testament to one’s lifelong dedication to their employer, as well as to moving through the ranks. Masatoshi-San has overseen Orient’s manufacturing division over the years and says, “With the merger of Orient Watch into Epson, it became possible to inherit watchmaking know-how while introducing Epson’s technology and capital strengths, improving both productivity and quality. The Japanese watch industry is definitely not losing out to the Swiss. We will continue to not only upgrade technology but also propose and implement manufacturing that is attractive to customers.”
Where the Sallaz polishing of Orient Star stands out is in the brightness of its elaborately shaped polished surfaces, as well as the spectacular contrast between these highlights and the brushed texture that is found on the case profile and the top of the lugs. One of the most challenging aspects of case polishing is getting corners and edges right: Should too much get removed from one side and the other has to follow and before one knows it, the material is gone and there’s no way of putting any of it back. The case needs to be discarded. It takes an expert’s eye and dexterity to bring a machined piece of metal to life, and that is what Sallaz-finishing was developed to achieve.
The challenge of multi-faceted lugs is often avoided by favoring a more generic design. It takes but a quick glance to see that the Basic Date tackled this daunting challenge head-on and, by applying alternating surface treatments, it has taken it to a higher level, still. The very end of the lugs is brushed, and the pentagonal angled facet just above it is highly polished, as is the beveled edge that connects it with the side of the case, while the profile and the top of the lugs are brushed yet again. When such masterful artisanship is displayed on the outside of a watch, it is easier to see and appreciate it any time when the timepiece is worn — which is what the Basic Date is intended for.
The Orient Star Basic Date is powered by the Orient Caliber F6N43, a proper in-house movement that replenishes its 50-hour power reserve through either the winding crown or its self-winding system. That somewhat longer-than-average reserve is attained by relying on an operating frequency of 3Hz, allowing wearers to pick up their watch still ticking on a Monday morning if they put it down on a late Friday night. The movement is protected by a 5-bar water resistance rating and a transparent caseback that allows one to see the golden “Orient Star Japan” script and the relatively large (also golden) balance wheel ticking away reliably.
Orient Star is forthcoming when it comes to sharing details on its power reserve indicator: In the 1990s, “[Orient Star’s] Engineers studied literature coming out of Switzerland, a country renowned for watchmaking, and worked for about two years to develop the technology that became a power reserve indicator, in 1996. Power reserve indicators are now a standard feature on Orient Star watches.” Orient Star, to match its higher positioning, set itself the goal of having this added comfort feature as a differentiating factor — and so its engineers studied the best way to do it for two years. It certainly is handy to have, and that’s true for any mechanical watch.
On the wrist, some might find that the Orient Star Basic Date Automatic wears ever-so-slightly larger than its 42mm actual size would suggest, primarily thanks to its narrow polished bezel and expansive dial, a proven recipe to make a watch look and wear bigger than it actually is. Overall wearability is nevertheless great, thanks to the thin case that measures just 11.5mm-thick, as well as the comfortably flexible bracelet. If one desires a more compact case, the 38.5mm RE-AU0006S from the same Orient Star Contemporary collection offers the same quality, caliber, and overall aesthetic.
The folding clasp is designed to be very thin and relatively short, both major plus points that help enhance long-term comfort. A front sapphire crystal, treated with anti-reflective coating, adds peace of mind and improves legibility. Speaking of peace of mind, with the aforementioned 5-bar (equivalent to 50m) water resistance rating, the Basic Date should still be able to survive in a humid environment, heavy rain, or even an accidental splash in a pool.
The Orient Star Basic Date RE-AU0404N has clearly been designed and built to be a great only-watch and daily wearer. Whether you are just getting into watches or are a die-hard fan who knows what makes Sallaz polishing stand out, you’ll probably find this an impressive piece for the price. The Orient Star Basic Date RE-AU0404N is priced at €795. Orient and Orient Star watches are sold via authorized distributors around the globe. Please see below for a list of distributors within Europe along with where to buy. Although there are a number of unauthorized sites that sell pieces from the brand, purchasing through an authorized distributor is the only way to ensure that your watch is genuine. For all other countries please visit the brand’s website.
| Country | Distributor | Key Retailer or Transactional Site |
| Italy | AI On Time | https://aion.orologiorient.it |
| Poland | Poljot Euro | https://poljot.com.pl/en/ |
| Spain | Platisur | https://orientrelojes.es/distribuidores-3/ |
| Finland | Timanttiset | https://www.timanttiset.fi/ |
| Germany | International Watch Trade (IWT) | https://www.deutsches-museum-shop.com/ |
| Netherlands | Weisz Group | https://www.seriouswatches.com/collections/orient-orient-star |
| France | Societe Spiero | https://montre-automatique.com/ |
| Hungary | Next Time | https://www.itstimeshop.hu/ |
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