I suppose some things are better late than never. Years after the green Patek Philippe Nautilus melted the watch world and seemed to mark peak saturation for green dials, Vacheron Constantin is finally bringing the color to its popular sports collection. The brand isn’t entirely late to the game, having already introduced a few green dials to its Traditionelle line, but the delay with the Overseas is notable. Almost every other watch brand, at every single price point, has used green dials in multiple collections, and certainly in their most popular models. So, please take the time to turn toward the door to the already crowded room where the party is already dying down and welcome four pink-gold Vacheron Constantin Overseas with green dials.
Four models are getting green: the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time (Ref. 7920V/210R-B965), the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph (Ref. 5520V/210R-B966), the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding in 41mm (Ref. 4520V/210R-B967), and the gem-set Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding in 35mm (Ref. 4605V/200R-B969). All feature 18k pink gold cases with brushed and polished finishing, with the Chronograph measuring 42.5mm and the Dual Time measuring 41mm. The watches range from 9.33mm to 12.67mm thick and feature sapphire crystals on the front and back. They all feature the same Maltese-style bezel that borrows from the brand’s logo, and the bezel 35mm Self-Winding is set with 90 round-cut diamonds.
The new green Overseas models are all delivered with three bands: a pink gold bracelet, leather, and rubber. The bracelet is what we’re all familiar with, with its Maltese cross-links and finishing to match the case. The leather and rubber straps are color-matched to the dial and feature a pin buckle. Vacheron heavily touts the interchangeability of the three straps: With the push of a single button, one can be removed and easily replaced with another. Finally, with the help of screw-down crowns, the watches all achieve 150m of water resistance, which will be useful if you choose to go snorkeling with your $50k solid-gold watch.
How about those dials? There isn’t a shade of green we haven’t seen on a watch, but this rich hue goes particularly well with the pink gold of the cases. The central dials on all the models feature a sunburst finish, while all but the 35mm Overseas Self-Winding feature a raised velvet-finished flange with a subtle pink gold interior wall demarcating the transition with the dial. Notable accents include the snailing on the chronograph registers, the pops of red on the day/night and second time zone hands on the Dual Time, and the pink gold date frames. The entire set has pink gold applied indices and hands, all of which are filled with blue Super-LumiNova.
Visible through the casebacks, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas models all have self-winding, in-house movements with 22k gold rotors. While all the watches run at 28,800 vph, the power reserve varies, with 52 hours on the Chronograph’s caliber 5200 (which features a column wheel chronograph mechanism), 60 hours on the Dual Time’s caliber 5110DT, 60 hours on the Self-Winding 41mm’s caliber 5100, and 40 hours on the Self-Winding 35mm’s caliber 1088/1. While all of these movements are undoubtedly of exceptional quality, all but the 1088/1 feature the Poinçon de Genève to certify the exceptional quality of the watches.
These are indisputably elegant watches, and I don’t think anyone would expect anything less from Vacheron. It may be late to the green game, but Vacheron doesn’t really do much color in general, and it certainly did this green right. I’d love to see this color get the same love as the blue and be expanded to the full range of Overseas, including the various tourbillon and skeleton models. Vacheron Constantin was unable to provide pricing information ahead of press time. It should be noted that the blue dial versions of the same watches are priced at $58,500 USD for the gem-set 35mm date, $60,500 USD for the 41mm date, and $79,500 USD for the chronograph, while the silver dial of the Dual Time without a bracelet is priced at $48,500 USD. For more information, please visit the Vacheron Constantin website.
