While dive watches were originally created as purpose-built underwater timekeeping tools, the genre has since transcended its utilitarian roots, and you can now find a wide assortment of luxury-oriented dive watches that pair ample levels of water resistance with gem-set cases and dials crafted from an assortment of different exotic materials. For its latest release of 2024, the Swiss manufacturer Ulysse Nardin has created exactly this type of dive watch, and the new Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll is a 100-piece limited edition that features a diamond-set bezel and a stone dial made from a slice of chrysocolla that recalls sun-drenched beaches and tropical waters.
Crafted from brushed and polished stainless steel (with 80% of the material being recycled), the new Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll is based on the core platform of the smallest model from the brand’s Diver collection, and its case measures 39mm in diameter by 11mm thick. Similar to its siblings, the Diver Atoll features a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal above its dial surrounded by a unidirectional rotating timing bezel. With that in mind, rather than featuring a standard elapsed-time scale, the Diver Atoll’s bezel only features numerals at its cardinal points, and the rest of its upper surface is adorned with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds that total 0.8 carats. A signed screw-down crown sits on the side of the case at the 3 o’clock location, while a solid screw-on stainless steel caseback closes up the reverse side of the watch, and despite not being designed for serious diving applications, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll still offers the same 300 meters of water resistance that can be found throughout the rest of the collection.
At the time of writing the vast majority of Ulysse Nardin’s 39mm Diver models include bezels adorned with gemstones, although the true standout feature of the Diver Atoll is its dial, which is made from a hand-cut slice of chrysocolla (a copper-rich mineral with an aqua blue appearance similar to turquoise). Similar to the brand’s other 39mm Diver watches, the new Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll features an additional 11 diamonds totaling 0.12 carats that serve as its hour markers, while a circular date window appears at the 6 o’clock location, and the time is displayed by a trio of centrally-mounted hands that have a polished finish with luminous inlays for increased visibility. Just like other stone dials, the naturally occurring structure of chrysocolla guarantees that no two examples will be identical, and the mineral showcases a kaleidoscope of colors that range from black and brown to brilliant shades of blue and green.
While the 44mm Ulysse Nardin Diver watches receive one of the brand’s manufacture calibers, the smaller 42mm and 39mm models both use the same Caliber UN-816 automatic movement, which can also be found inside the new limited-edition Diver Atoll. At its core, the Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN816 is based upon the fundamental architecture of the ETA 2892 or Sellita SW300, and just like most movements that rely on this same underlying design, the Cal. UN-816 offers traditional time-and-date functionality (with a quickset for the date), and it operates at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. With that in mind, Ulysse Nardin is the godfather of silicon movement components and the Cal. UN-816 fitted to the new Diver Atoll features its anchor and escape wheel made from silicon for superior accuracy and resistance to magnetism.
Similar to other models from the brand’s Diver collection, the new Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll is available with the option of two different straps, and buyers can choose between a white rubber strap (ref. 8163-182B1LE-9A-ATOLL/3A), or a white alligator leather strap (ref. 8163-182B1LE-9A-ATOLL/1A). While the leather strap features small contrast stitching near the lugs, the rubber strap offers a textured outer surface, and unlike the rubber straps found on many of the brand’s flagship 44mm Diver models, the white rubber strap fitted to the Diver Atoll lacks the signed metal link that resides on the 6 o’clock side near the case. Additionally, while Ulysse Nardin does not include an image that shows the types of clasps or buckles that are attached to the straps, no indication about a folding clasp is mentioned in the press release (or on the brand’s website), and I would imagine that both strap options are completed by standard stainless steel tang-style buckles.
Due to their gem-set dials and bezels, many of Ulysse Nardin’s 39mm Diver watches are more expensive than their larger 42mm and 44mm counterparts, and the chrysocolla dials fitted to this latest 100-piece limited edition are accompanied by a solid premium compared to similar models with less ornate dials. Consequently, the new Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll is priced at $15,800 USD, which makes it one of the most expensive offerings within the collection, and the only models currently positioned above it are diamond-set references that also feature 18k gold case components. Given that the 39mm Ulysse Nardin Diver models are categorically less performance-oriented than their larger siblings, gemstones and exotic material dials are commonplace within the series, and the new Diver Atoll turns things up a notch with one of the most striking and colorful dials in the entire collection. For more information on the Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll, please visit the brand’s website.