This year, at Watches & Wonders 2024, Tudor expanded the Black Bay 58 line. In 2021, Tudor introduced the Black Bay 58 in 18k Yellow Gold, but only with a brown alligator strap and a green/gold fabric strap. This year, Tudor re-released it with some ‘refinements’ and, for the first time, an 18k solid gold 3-link bracelet fitted with the Tudor T-Fit clasp. While a dive watch in 18k may seem unusual, the distinction between jewelry and practical dive watches has been blurred for decades. Considering the 18k solid gold “head only” edition released in 2021, Tudor’s decision to release this with a solid gold bracelet is understandable. The biggest concern with the original release was the absence of a bracelet. The weight of a full solid gold watch is unparalleled, offering a subtle yet flashy appeal as a sport watch. So, fans can rejoice as Tudor answered with the Tudor Black Bay 58 18k M79018V-0006.
Looking at the case, the first noticeable feature is its satin-finished gold, rather than shiny yellow gold, giving it a bronze-like appearance which complements the green bezel beautifully. This vintage aesthetic is something Tudor excels at. The watch measures 39mm in diameter and 12.7mm in thickness, identical to the 2021 release. It also features a sapphire display caseback, as it’s no longer just a practical dive watch but a piece to be displayed. The shade of green is particularly striking, reminiscent of the Harrods collaboration, but this green and gold combination works exceptionally well. It comes with a traditional Tudor rose-signed screw-down crown and offers 200m of water resistance, suitable for diving. The new 18k solid gold bracelet is the only new addition to this release, featuring a 3-link design and the very comfortable Tudor T-Fit clasp with 8mm of micro-adjustment. With a width of 20mm, there are endless strap options available. However, why would you change it from the bracelet?
The dial matches the matte-green shade of the bezel, with 18k gold applied markers standing out against the domed dial, accompanied by the traditional vintage snowflake hands, also in 18k gold. The matte finish adds to the quiet luxury of the watch, fitting for its solid gold construction.
Flipping the watch over reveals the display caseback, a feature introduced in 2021. This showcases the reworked Calibre MT5400 movement, although it’s not particularly impressive in appearance. However, it does boast a 70-hour power reserve, a desirable feature. The Calibre MT5400 is certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), and Tudor humorously dubs it “weekend proof,” implying it can be taken off for the weekend and resumed on Monday without issue. This further suggests it’s a weekend watch, but one might question why it would be taken off after wearing it all week.
While Tudor’s efforts are commendable, this watch seems a departure from their usual style. It would perhaps fit better under the Rolex brand rather than Tudor’s more affordable, vintage-inspired range. At $32,100 USD, it’s double the cost of the 2021 edition, but it does feature significantly more gold. Whether it’s worth its weight in gold is subjective and likely a sticking point for many Tudor fans. It’s unclear where this Black Bay 58 18k M79018V-0006 fits into Tudor’s collection. While undeniably beautiful and admirable, it seems somewhat off-base for the brand. The Black Bay 58 18k is available this month, for $32,100 USD. For more information, please visit the Tudors Website.
