For its latest release of 2024, Tissot has released a gaggle of new dial colors for its wildly popular PRX series of integrated bracelet watches, including some with multi-colored gradient surfaces. However, among the cornucopia of new colorways is a strap-equipped version of the PRX Powermatic 80 that is crafted from forged carbon and powered by an upgraded movement with a silicon hairspring. Although carbon fiber cases and silicon movement components are generally accompanied by fairly significant premiums, the new forged carbon Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 maintains the collection’s attainable positioning with a price that still comes in below the thousand-dollar mark.

Despite going by the same “Tissot Powermatic 80 40mm” name as its siblings, the new forged carbon model (ref. T137.907.97.201.00) is actually half a millimeter larger than its stainless steel counterparts with a diameter of 40.5mm and a “length” of 40mm. That said, it is important to note that the “length” dimension that Tissot lists on its website isn’t the lug-to-lug profile of the watch, but rather the distance from inside the 12mm gap between its semi-integrated lugs when measured vertically from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock. Similarly, the new forged carbon PRX is also slightly thicker at 11.2mm (compared to the 10.9mm height of the standard stainless steel models), and these small increases in size are due to the different architecture of its case, which consists of a stainless steel internal housing surrounded by a single-piece carbon fiber outer section that forms the middle case, lugs, and bezel.

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The rest of the new forged carbon Tissot PRX follows in the footsteps of the other Powermatic 80 models from the collection, with a flat sapphire crystal above its dial (with anti-reflective treatment), a signed push/pull-style crown at the 3 o’clock location, and a snap-on display caseback with a sapphire window that offers a view of the internal movement. Additionally, water resistance for the new forged carbon PRX Powermatic 80 comes in at the same 100 meters that can be found throughout the rest of the collection, and while the crown and caseback on the watch are crafted from stainless steel, these components have been given a black finish to match the dark hues of its carbon fiber case.

Rather than being fitted with a traditional metal dial with a colored finish like the rest of its siblings, the new forged carbon Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 receives a matching dial made from forged carbon that showcases the material’s natural asymmetric striations throughout its surface. With that in mind, the actual design and layout of the dial remain unchanged with applied luminous hour markers, a printed minute track, and a framed date window at the 3 o’clock location. Similarly, the handset for the new forged carbon PRX has been carried over from its automatic siblings, and it features the same blunted baton-shaped profile with recessed centers and luminous strips on the hour and minute hands.

Aside from its carbon fiber case, the other most noteworthy detail about the new forged carbon Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is the updated movement fitted to the model. Just like all of Tissot’s other entry-level mechanical watches, the new forged carbon PRX is powered by the brand’s Powermatic 80 automatic movement, which is based upon the core architecture of the ETA 2824, although it runs at a lower frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) and offers a longer power reserve of 80 hours. However, unlike the standard Powermatic 80 movements that feature Nivachron hairsprings, the new forged carbon PRX uses the same movement that can be found inside the Tissot Gentleman, which features a silicon hairspring indicated by a small “Si” engraving on the upper surface of its balance bridge.

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While the Tissot PRX was originally created as an integrated bracelet watch, the brand now produces multiple different strap-equipped versions, and the new forged carbon Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is fitted with a black textured rubber strap, rather than having a matching carbon fiber bracelet. Based on the photos, the strap appears to be identical to the other rubber straps available for the series, which means that it connects to the 12mm gap between the lugs with integrated quick-release springbars, and it immediately flares out to meet the edges of the case before tapering back down to 18mm where it connects to its tang-style buckle. Additionally, while the signed stainless steel buckle appears to be identical to what can be found on other PRX straps, it has been given a black finish to match the rest of the watch.

A key part of why the Tissot PRX has been such a runaway success for the brand is that it offers a well-executed expression of a popular style at a price point that is firmly positioned on the attainable side of the spectrum. While the new forged carbon Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 (ref. T137.907.97.201.00) naturally costs more than its stainless steel siblings, the additional premium is ultimately rather modest at less than a few hundred dollars, and the forged carbon PRX has an official retail price of $995 USD. Given that carbon fiber is hardly an intrinsically valuable material, I’ve often been baffled by the extreme premiums some brands charge for their carbon-cased watches, and the new forged carbon Tissot PRX serves as further proof that Swiss manufacturers are entirely capable of producing a carbon fiber watch without charging a precious metal premium. For more information on the Tissot PRX collection, please visit the brand’s website.


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