In 2022, Seiko released the SPB293J1 and the SPB319J1 in the Presage Craftsmanship Series, captivating watch enthusiasts with their exquisite design and technique. For 2024, Seiko has taken the models to new heights, introducing enhancements that make these timepieces even more desirable. Let’s look at what makes the latest additions to the Presage Craftsmanship Series stand out.
The Presage Craftsmanship Series highlights Seiko’s dedication to continuous improvement, or “Kaizen.” Master craftsman Hiroyuki Hashiguchi and his colleagues in Arita, a town synonymous with porcelain artwork, have been developing dials with the Presage team for years. This next addition to the line is by no means a shift in their design work but rather a series of slight changes that have led to a significant visual improvement in this latest wristwatch.
If you’re feeling that this piece resembles another watch from the Seiko family, you’re not alone. This watch clearly pulls your eyes toward the famous Credor Eichi II — even more so now that it uses similar bar indices on the dial. This simple yet elegant design has been a core part of the Seiko design language, and with the Credor coming in at more than 25 times the price of this new piece, there is a strong desire to take cues from the Eichi II.
The new SPB445J1 retains a familiar case design but with subtle modifications. The case is now 40.6mm in diameter (.1mm larger than the previous version), 12.5 mm thick (.1mm thicker), and 49.1 mm (.3mm longer) lug-to-lug — changes that are likely to be barely noticeable on the wrist but that contribute to the refined look. The lug width remains a user-friendly 20mm, ensuring compatibility with a variety of straps. In addition to slight size changes, both the case and bracelet feature a super-hard coating to help prevent scratches. The latest edition also continues with 100 meters of water resistance, which is fairly standard, at this point, for a dressier watch. There’s no mention of whether this selection comes with a screw-down crown, something that would give most collectors a bit more peace of mind with regular wear.
The dial receives a more modern look by embracing the use of simple bar indices in black, trading away the previous Roman numerals. The dial also features a 24-hour subdial with Breguet numerals at the 6 o’clock position, another addition that gives the watch more visual presence. Along with these dial changes, the dial surface has a curvature that adds another layer of visual interest and provides a shadowing effect, breaking up the bright white finish. All of this is covered with a sapphire crystal.
The blue hands with the crescent moon balance on the second hand closely resemble those in previous releases in the line and feature a slight bend at the tips of the minute and second hands. The contrast of the blue hands, black indexes, and white dial provides easy legibility and an elegant look for the dressier piece.
The movement is the Seiko 6R5H, an automatic movement that is +25/-15 seconds per day along with a very healthy power reserve of approximately 72 hours. This movement allows Seiko to add the 24-hour hand at 6 o’clock and hacking for increased accuracy in setting the timepiece. The movement also features 21,600 vibrations per hour or 3 Hz. The 6R5H is shown through a display caseback, which Seiko has frequently used even for its less detailed movements.
The bracelet has also been gently updated from the 2022 editions, offering more centered polished vertical bars and making them slightly thicker while leaving the brushed links for the remainder of the bracelet. The use of polished and brushed materials is not a large departure from previous versions of this bracelet but further shows Seiko’s commitment to making subtle improvements in the name of better products. Visually, the bracelet looks stunning and offers the wearer a reminder that this watch brings a dressy look and feel even to the bracelet.
Previous iterations of this watch were offered with a black leather strap option, and while it seems that the bracelet will be the primary offering, this watch will still look great on black leather, as it is a dressier piece.
Competitors like Nomos, Longines, Sinn, and even certain Tudor models play in this field, and while the use of porcelain is a more innovative dial material, rest assured that these competitors are offering heritage, history, and finishing that will make even the strongest Seiko supporter consider the entirety of the market before settling on the SPB445J1.
This watch certainly looks like something you might see in the highest end of the Seiko family and is a nice offering in the dressy Presage line. Coming in at $1,900 USD (the 2022 model line was $1,700), the price provides little sticker shock considering the fit and finish, as well as the meticulous dial art. At this price point, one does wonder about other offerings in the field in the under-$2,000 price range. For more information please visit the brand’s website.
