The sportier models from Patek Philippe may have grabbed all the headlines over the past few years but now that trends are shifting towards smaller, dressier watches, it’s time for the Golden Ellipse to shine again. At Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe has unveiled the Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/1R-001 in rose gold, complete with a matching gold chain bracelet attached to the famed circle-meets-rectangle-shaped case.
While Golden Ellipse watches with bracelets are certainly not new — they’ve been around since the early days of the collection until the 1980s — this is the first large-sized model to be paired with one. Like previous large Golden Ellipse reference 5738 watches, the rose gold case of this new version measures 34.5mm by 39.5mm. Its slender profile is a mere 5.9mm, making the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738 the slimmest watch in Patek Philippe’s standard production catalog. Although the instantly recognizable case is what made the Golden Ellipse famous, the star of the show here is the supple chain bracelet.
According to Patek Philippe, this modern take on the classic chain bracelet took 15 years to develop and its patented construction comprises 363 parts, including more than 300 links. Each piece is assembled one by one, by hand, and the bracelet can be lengthened or shortened as needed. The clasp, which is engraved with a pattern that echoes the bracelet, includes three adjustment notches. Patek Philippe typically categorizes its metal bracelets into types: chain bracelets made from wire by one artisan’s hand and “mechanical” bracelets produced on CNC machinery from a bar of metal then assembled and finished by hand. The new chain-style bracelet of the Golden Ellipse combines both techniques with components produced on CNC machines then hand-assembled and hand-finished.
The ebony black sunburst dial is home to baton-style applied indices and thin cheveu-style hands, all made in rose gold. To match the color of the dial, there’s a black onyx cabochon set into the crown. Driving the pair of hour and minutes hands and sitting under the solid rose gold caseback is the ultra-thin Caliber 240 self-winding movement with a mini rotor that supplies the watch with 48 hours of power reserve. The 2.53mm-thick movement is made of 161 parts and operates at a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour.
I have no doubts that the new Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/1R-001 will be one of the most talked about releases of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Old-school Golden Ellipse pieces are already a fan-favorite on the vintage market so this stunning modern iteration will capture the hearts and minds of many. The Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/1R-001 will retail for 60,100 USD. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.
