High-jewelry sports watches have been steadily coming out of the Patek Philippe factory recently, showing off a wide spectrum of precious gems, vivid colors, and stone-setting techniques. One such example that’s just been unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024 is the Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Reference 5268/461G-001 watch, vying for your attention with its combination of diamonds and blue sapphires blanketing almost every possible surface of the watch.
The white gold case of the Aquanaut Luce ref. 5268, which measures 38.8mm in diameter and 9.1mm thick, includes a bezel that’s set with 40 baguette-cut sapphires, laid out in a light to dark blue gradient. The lugs also benefit from some sparkle, 8 baguette-cut diamonds to be exact. More party-ready than pool-ready, this Aquanaut is only water resistant to 30 meters.
If you’re familiar with the design codes of the Aquanaut, you will know that most of the dials are decorated with a checkered pattern. Patek Philippe has retained that detail on this bejeweled model but recreated it with 20 baguette sapphires and 20 baguette diamonds. Framing the center checkered motif is the hour ring paved with brilliant-cut diamonds that were snow-set, a technique characterized by meticulously placing differently-sized gems next to each other. But that’s not all; serving as hour markers are 12 baguette sapphires and decorating the white gold fold-over clasp are 10 baguette diamonds.
As is customary for Aquanauts, the sapphire and diamond Luce is paired with a checkered embossed composite strap, in dark blue to match the blue gems. Another blue element is the sweep seconds hand that accompanies the lumed hour and minute hands. Inside the watch is the Caliber 26‑330 S automatic movement with 45 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz). The movement and its 21k gold central rotor are, of course, visible through the sapphire caseback.
To summarize just how many precious gems we’re talking about here, the Aquanaut Luce ref. 5268 includes a total of 72 baguette-cut sapphires (5.29 carats), 38 baguette-cut diamonds (2.03 carats), and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.71 carats). Although a high-jewelry piece, I actually find it to be quite subdued when compared to some of the other, wilder gem-set Aquanaut models, such as Rainbow Luce models. The blue and white colorway is photogenic and the checkered dial arrangement of the stones is a fun touch. No surprises here, but this opulent diamond and sapphire Aquanaut carries a hefty price tag; it will retail for 235,670 USD. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.
