At Watches & Wonders 2024, IWC has chosen to focus exclusively on the Portugieser, the 1930’s pocket watch-inspired collection that offers a cornucopia of complications, sizes, metals, and colors. Among the releases are three new versions of the fan-favorite IWC Portugieser Chronograph, now available with Horizon Blue, Obsidian, and Dune dials.
The trio of new dial shades were selected to represent different times (and vibes) of day and night. Horizon Blue, which is housed inside an 18k white gold case, symbolizes the early afternoon sky, void of mood-dampening clouds. Dune, paired with a stainless steel case, echos late afternoon, specifically that beautiful golden hour slice of the day when everyone looks fabulous. Unsurprisingly, Obsidian, coupled with an 18k yellow gold case, symbolizes the darkness of night lit up by warm city lights.
To make these dials, a sunburst finish is first added to the brass bases followed by an application of color and 15 layers of transparent lacquer. The surface is then fine-ground and polished to achieve that high-gloss finish. The duo of counters, placed at their customary positions at 6 and 12 o’clock, are then milled into the lacquered brass canvas, after which they’re ready to be printed with their specific scales — chronograph minutes at the top and small (hacking) seconds at the bottom. Finally, the signature applied Arabic numerals take their positions around the periphery of the dial. According to IWC, it takes 60 steps just to manufacture the dials.
Aside from the new dial colors, all the other details of the three Portugieser Chronographs remain the same as their predecessors. This is to say that the cases, which are water resistant to 30 meters, measure 41mm in diameter and 13.1mm thick. There are a pair of pump-style chronograph pushers framing the winding crown while the back is furnished with a sapphire crystal window for a view of what’s going on inside. Occupying that interior space is the IWC-manufactured Caliber 69355, a classic column-wheel-designed chronograph movement with 46 hours of power reserve.
Each of the new-for-2024 Portugieser Chronograph models comes with a calfskin strap from Santoni. The black strap of the Obsidian variant and the gradient light-blue strap of the Horizon Blue model are fitted with pin buckles made from the same materials as their respective precious metal cases. On the other hand, the black strap of the Dune watch has a stainless steel butterfly clasp.
The stainless steel Portugieser Chronograph with the Dune dial (ref. IW371624) will retail for 8,400 USD whereas the yellow gold Portugieser Chronograph with the Obsidian dial (ref. IW371625) will retail for 19,200 USD. The white gold Portugieser Chronograph with the Horizon Blue dial (ref. IW371626) is the most expensive of the three, priced at 20,300 USD. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.
