This year, HYT is trying to demonstrate that it’s truly back. After introducing its first solid-dial models (which still feature fluid displays), the super luxury watchmaker is adding a new version of its signature tourbillon to its catalog. Previously produced with gems and in titanium, this new model takes the classic black-and-white colorway popular in chronographs and brings it to the model line along with the brand’s first use of ceramic. The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda sees stark contrast and soft lines come together for an entirely new look.
The HYT Conical Tourbillon already comes in a gem-set rose-gold version, a black carbon version, and a titanium version, and they all feature plenty of color with the fluids (can I say watch juice?) and dial elements. That’s one of the biggest differences with the Panda model: the lack of color. It’s all black and white aside from a bit of gearing that peeks through. The sizeable 48mm case isn’t for the faint of heart, though my experience with HYT’s dramatic pieces is that the spectacle is well worth the size, even if that means a 25.15mm thickness. In any case, it’s titanium which helps with heft, and here it’s coated with white ceramic, giving a smoother appearance that’s sleeker than previous editions. If it weren’t for the dial, you could call it spartan, and it reminds me a bit of THX 1138. The case is paired with a solid white rubber strap (no details on the type of rubber) that has a black DCL titanium pin buckle. This strap (and perhaps the case) is sure to get dirty in short order, and the only thing that may prevent that is the limitations placed on the watch by its 30m water resistance.
The Conical Tourbillon Panda, like its siblings, is defined by an intentionally chaotic dial. I’m not kidding. The brand details one of the watch’s functions as “chaotic animation.” Underneath an enormous domed sapphire crystal and surrounding the tall namesake 30-second tourbillon are three sets of white agate orbs, twisting on their axes as they rotate the tourbillon. The orbs all rotate at different rates of 4, 5, and 6 times per minute for a truly manic mechanical feat. For what it’s worth, the watch does tell time. Using HYT’s signature proprietary tech, the hour is displayed via black fluid in the tube that traces the dial just inside the white agate minute track. The retrograde hours are marked by Super-LumiNova, while the minutes are displayed by a small white arrow and a black minute ring just inside the hour tube. The minute hand is also lumed, though in full light, I imagine it will be infuriatingly hard to keep track of.
On full, glorious display through the caseback, the HYT caliber 701-TC consists of 533 parts, including 139 for the tourbillon alone. Winding is completed with a special tool provided with the watch and the movement delivers a minimum of 40 hours at 21,600 vph. The brand describes the finishing as “high-end,” which is the laziest way to describe a movement’s decoration I’ve ever heard. Looks like there’s some brushing and beveled edges and stamped honeycomb patterns and engraving. Lots of high-end stuff, for sure. Of course, at the bottom of the movement are the bellows and the fluidic module that drives the watch juice.
This is pure, unabashed dazzle factory haute horlogerie with no room for apologies, corner-cutting, or simplicity. Yet, seen within the Conical Tourbillon line, the black and white refinement of the case brings a bit of restraint, almost flattening the visual impact of the watch. The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda is priced at CHF 355,000 (roughly 17,000 Casio F91W-1’s) and is limited to just eight pieces. For more information, please visit the HYT website.
