I will openly admit that I’m a complete sucker for watches with brightly colored transparent cases, and for the past two years, LVMH Watch Week has marked the release of new Hublot models that directly speak to this deep-seated part of my psyche. Among the numerous watches unveiled this year at LVMH Watch Week 2025 is the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM, which continues this tradition as an 18-piece limited edition with an absolutely eye-watering price.
For those who aren’t familiar with SAXEM, this high-tech material was originally developed for the satellite industry, and in terms of its core properties, SAXEM is rather similar to synthetic sapphire. Both man-made materials are transparent and primarily composed of aluminum oxide; however, SAXEM has a cubic crystalline structure, while sapphire’s structure is three-sided, and this makes SAXEM the superior choice when it comes to rich and vibrant colors, as the material will offer more symmetrical hues when viewed at different angles. Additionally, unlike sapphire, which is colored using metallic oxides, SAXEM uses rare earth elements to achieve its hues, and this is where we get the name of the material (SAXEM is an acronym for “Sapphire Aluminum oXide and rare Earth Mineral”).
This isn’t the first watch that Hublot has made using SAXEM and the material made its debut appearance in the watch industry back in 2019, when the brand unveiled the Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM. From there, we got the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Neon Yellow SAXEM in 2023, and last year at LVMH Watch Week 2024, the Nyon-based manufacturer unveiled the Big Bang Unico Green SAXEM as the most affordable SAXEM-cased watch that the brand has put forward thus far. This year, as part of its releases for LVMH Watch Week 2025, Hublot has released the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM (ref. 429.JG.0110.RT), which is essentially the same watch as Neon Yellow SAXEM model that debuted two years ago but with a black and green colorway (and a significant increase in price).
The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic has become a known quantity, and it frequently serves as the foundation for premium models, such as the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire with its matching sapphire bracelet. For those who have previous experience with the series, the new Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM will offer no surprises when it comes to its overall design and construction. Measuring 44mm in diameter by 14.4mm thick, the case of the watch is crafted from Green SAXEM, with clear sapphire crystals fitted to both its bezel and caseback. Just like other iterations, water resistance comes in at a fairly minimal 30 meters, and similar to other Hublot models with Green SAXEM cases, the transparent emerald-green case is contrasted by black elements that appear throughout its dial, crown, and the connecting screws that secure its case components.
Like all of Hublot’s Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic watches, the new Green SAXEM version is fitted with a sapphire dial to showcase its highly skeletonized movement, although the dial is smoked on this latest iteration to further lean into its black and green colorway. Keeping with this theme, the hands and hour markers are all finished black, and they are filled with matching black Super-LumiNova that emits a green colored glow in the dark. Just like other tourbillon watches from the Big Bang collection, the time is displayed by a pair of centrally mounted hands, while the 60-second tourbillon is prominently displayed on the lower half of the dial, and taking the place of the brand’s logo at 12 o’clock is an inverted micro-rotor made from 22k gold that has been skeletonized with Hublot’s name and given a black finish to match the rest of the dial elements.
Powering the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM is the brand’s manufacture HUB6035 automatic movement, which is the same caliber that can be found inside other iterations of this model. Running at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 72 hours, the 26-jewel Cal. HUB6035 consists of 293 individual parts, and three of its structural components (the barrel bridge, automatic bridge, and tourbillon barrette) are crafted from clear sapphire to further accentuate the movement’s highly skeletonized design. From a functional standpoint, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM will be entirely identical to its siblings made from different case materials; however, its Caliber HUB6035 movement receives a black finish on its bridges and micro-rotor, which visually separates it from what can be found within the rest of the series.
Similar to many of its watches, Hublot includes multiple straps with the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM. The default option is the black line-textured rubber strap that is featured throughout the press images, and it is completed by a deployant clasp made from black ceramic and black-finished titanium. Bundled with the watch is a transparent green rubber strap, which I imagine will be similar to what can be found on last year’s Green SAXEM model, and Hublot also includes a black Velcro strap with a fastening loop made from black ceramic (although neither of the two alternate straps are shown among the press images of the watch). As usual, owners can easily swap between the trio of included straps using the brand’s One Click system, which enables the strap to quickly be disconnected from the case by pressing the two buttons located on the upper surfaces of its lugs.
When it comes to pricing, Hublot typically charges more for its SAXEM-cased watches compared to otherwise identical models that are made from sapphire. Given that this latest SAXEM Hublot is essentially just a color variation of the model that was released two years ago, you’d be forgiven for thinking that these two watches cost the exact same. However, with an official retail price of $231,000 USD, the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM (ref. 429.JG.0110.RT) comes at a five-figure premium above what the brand currently charges for its Neon Yellow SAXEM counterpart, which makes it the most expensive SAXEM watch that Hublot has put forward yet. With that in mind, this latest release is also the most exclusive when it comes to the quantity of available examples, and it will be produced as a limited edition of just 18 pieces. For more information on the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM, please visit the brand’s website.