Gagà Laboratorio, the brainchild of Gagà Milano founder Ruben Tomella, marked the start of Geneva Watch Days 2024 by unveiling the Labormatic Cinquanta and Labormatic Bauhaus. Both watches are essentially the same but have very different personalities. There’s the colorful mid-century-inspired Cinquanta and the minimalist Bauhaus. From the funky numerals on the Cinquanta model to the pocket watch-inspired crown at 12 o’clock and dramatically angled lugs, there’s no mistaking Tomella had a hand in these novelties.
The 1950s were a glorious time for Italy. The country was rebounding economically from World War II and embracing new areas of growth in the industrial and service industries. In many areas of the country, its people thrived. Across the Pacific, space-age “Googie” architecture (think the famous Star Dust Hotel and Seattle’s Space Needle), chromed automobiles, and vibrant colors greatly impacted mid-century Americana. It is that era, from both sides of the globe, that Gagà Laboratorio drew inspiration for the appropriately named Cinquanta (which means “50” in Italian). The pastel dial and Arabic numerals really drive home the 1950s retro look the brand was going for here. Knowing what I know now about the inspiration for the Labormatic Cinquanta, I would say that it resembles a jukebox in a 1950s malt shop or even a flying saucer.
In stark contrast, the Labormatic Bauhaus, with its gray color palette and sharp, clean lines, is inspired by a different era punctuated by what the brand describes best as “industrial elegance.” Bold, radial lines replace the stylized Arabic numerals, and the pastel dial is now monotone. What I found most interesting about this version of the Labormatic was the red minute indicator, which feels very utilitarian to me and helps break up the monotony of the dial.
Both watches have the same 42mm 7-part case with an exhibition caseback and a double-curved AR sapphire crystal. In true Gagà fashion, the crown is above the 12-hour marker to resemble a pocket watch, and the lugs jut dramatically away from the strap. I haven’t seen images of anyone wearing this watch yet. Still, I imagine it has just as much presence as other creations from the broader Gagà design universe based on these design similarities alone. Furthermore, each version has an Italian hand-made Saffiano leather strap with extra space for the low-set crown. From the images I’ve seen, the space between the case and the strap looks fairly substantial on the crown side. I’m curious how obvious that gap is on the wrist.
The dial has a digital and analog layout, displaying digital hours in a window at 12 o’clock, analog minutes, and seconds in a centralized disc. This layout somewhat reminds me of the jumping hour on the Reservoir Fastback, which uses a movement based on the same La Joux-Perret caliber LJP-G100 powering the Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic collection.
As I mentioned previously, both watches have the same technical specs. However, Gagà Laboratorio did an excellent job distinguishing them from each other just enough so that they would speak to all sorts of collectors. Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Cinquanta and Bauhaus watches will retail for 3,900 Swiss Francs each. For more information, please visit the Gagà Laboratorio website.
