Given that dive watches were originally created as underwater timing tools, the concept of a luxury diver would have been somewhat of an oxymoron during the 1950s. However, dive watches have since transcended their tool-oriented origins, and you will now find a wide variety of highly opulent divers, which are firmly positioned as luxury offerings within their respective brands’ catalogs. Despite being one of the marquees that epitomize the golden era of the purpose-built dive watch, Doxa is also a favorite within enthusiast circles, and the Swiss brand has more recently created a variety of models that expand upon the fundamental concept of its signature cushion-cased diver. Joining the catalog as the brand’s latest release of 2024 is the Doxa SUB 200T Diamonds series, which is a retailer-exclusive lineup of gem-set watches that feature mother-of-pearl dials and the option of seven different colorways.

At the time of launch, the new Doxa SUB 200T Diamonds lineup spans seven different colorways, with many of them being the same fan-favorite colors that can be found within the brand’s other contemporary collections. Just like the standard SUB 200 lineup, Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), Caribbean (blue), Aquamarine (turquoise), Whitepearl (white), and Sea Emerald (green) are all available options. However, Searambler (silver) is not included within the new SUB 200T Diamonds lineup, which is likely due to its aesthetic overlap with the Whitepearl model, and Divingstar (yellow) is also notably absent from the new gem-set series. With that in mind, taking the final place among the seven available colorways is Ocean Dream (pink), which is a completely new option within Doxa’s catalog that is making its debut appearance in the SUB 200T Diamonds collection.

From a fundamental design and specifications standpoint, the new Doxa SUB 200T Diamonds watches are based upon the blueprint of the standard SUB 200T, which debuted earlier this year as a mid-size rendition of Doxa’s signature diver. Since the key differences between the new SUB 200T Diamonds models and their core-collection counterparts pertain to their dials and bezels, you get the same cushion-shaped middle case crafted from 316L stainless steel, and it is furnished with a flat sapphire crystal, a solid screw-down caseback, and a screw-down crown at the 3 o’clock location that is adorned with Doxa’s fish emblem. Similarly, the new SUB 200T Diamonds watches have the same dimensions as their unadorned siblings, and they measure 39mm in diameter by 10.7mm thick, with a lug width of 18mm and an overall lug-to-lug profile of 41.5mm. Additionally, water resistance remains unchanged for the SUB 200T Diamonds models, and they offer the same 200-meter depth rating as their unadorned SUB 200T counterparts.

While the new Doxa SUB 200T Diamonds watches are still fitted with unidirectional rotating timing bezels that have the brand’s signature sawtooth-style rim, the bezels omit the dual-scale markings that are usually found on Doxa’s divers, and they are instead adorned with diamonds and other colored gemstones. The upper surfaces of the bezels are set with 107 diamonds, while 13 colored gemstones are positioned at the five-minute markings to create a gem-encrusted rendition of a traditional timing scale. The colored gemstones on the bezels match the specific colorway of the watches, and the types of stones differ depending on the model. Sapphires are used on the Professional, Caribbean, and Ocean Dream versions, while the Sharkhunter and Whitepearl models both receive black diamonds. Additionally, emeralds appear on the bezel of the Sea Emerald variant, and blue Paraiba tourmalines are used for the turquoise-colored gemstones on the Aquamarine model.

Along with having gem-set bezels, the Doxa SUB 200T Diamonds models also feature luxury-oriented dials that render the brand’s classic dive watch style in a significantly more elevated format. The surfaces of the dials are formed by slices of genuine mother-of-pearl, and since the material appears in a different vibrant hue for each of the seven colorways, it can reasonably be assumed that the mother-of-pearl has either been colored or fitted with a tinted layer to provide it with a rich saturated appearance. The first Doxa to feature a mother-of-pearl dial was the SUB 300 Beta Sediqqi Edition from 2023, and the new SUB 200T Diamonds models expanded upon this concept with a full suite of colors. Additionally, rather than having printed hour markers, the dials fitted to the SUB 200T Diamonds watches all receive applied indexes for a more refined overall appearance, although the polished hands and hour markers still receive an application of Super-LumiNova to ensure visibility in low-light conditions.

Unlike the standard SUB 200T models, which are available with the option of either a stainless steel bracelet or a color-coordinated FKM rubber strap, the new Doxa SUB 200T Diamonds watches are exclusively fitted with the brand’s stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet to further lean into their luxury-oriented appearance. The current versions of Doxa’s beads-of-rice bracelet feature solid machined components with single-sided screws for their removable links, and they are completed by chunky folding clasps that include a double push-button release and an integrated tool-free extension system. While the standard configuration for Doxa’s SUB 200T Diamonds models is limited to the brand’s stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet, any of the colored rubber straps for the non-gem-set versions of the SUB 200T will be compatible with their cases, should owners want a more casual option for their diamond-encrusted Doxa dive watch.

As usual, Doxa doesn’t include the specific manufacturer or caliber number among the movement information for its new SUB 200T Diamonds models, although it is relatively safe to assume the lineup is powered by the same Sellita Caliber SW200 automatic movement that can be found inside the vast majority of the brand’s time-and-date watches. Running at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of 38 hours, the Sellita SW200 is one of the most common Swiss self-winding calibers within the industry, and while certain Doxa models such as the SUB 300 and SUB 300 Carbon receive chronometer-certified versions of this popular movement, the brand will always list COSC-certification when it applies to the specific model. Given that the SUB 200T Diamonds lineup is clearly positioned as a premium offering, a chronometer-certified movement would have been a welcome addition, although this would have inevitably resulted in a higher price, and these gem-set models are already the most expensive offerings within Doxa’s current lineup.

Regardless of colorway or gemstones, all seven Doxa SUB 200T Diamonds watches have the same official retail price of $9,400 USD, which makes them nearly six times more expensive than their standard unadorned counterparts. Additionally, while Doxa sells most of its watches directly on its website, the new SUB 200T Diamonds models will be retailer-exclusive offerings that are intended to add a more elevated element to the brand’s in-store experience. All things considered, 39mm gem-set diver with a mother-of-pearl dial is a drastic departure from the purpose-built tool watches that Doxa was producing during the golden era of the mechanical timepiece; however, you are now more likely to find Doxa watches inside horology-centric jewelers than crusty beachside dive shops, and the brand has even recently launched a collection of watch-inspired cufflinks, so it’s clear that Doxa has its sights on a more luxury-oriented segment of the market. For more information on the Doxa SUB 200T Diamonds collection, please visit the brand’s website.