Like many enthusiasts, I have a bit of a soft spot for Doxa and its signature cushion-shaped case profile, although models such as the SUB 300 and the SUB300T are just a bit too large for me to comfortably wear on a daily basis. With consumer trends moving toward smaller cases, I can only imagine that I wasn’t alone in my wishes for a more compact version of the brand’s signature dive watch, and just ahead of Watches & Wonders 2024, Doxa has created the exact timepiece that many collectors have been requesting for years. Offering the same design details and cushion-shaped case that are emblematic of the brand, the new Doxa SUB 200T collection makes its debut in the form of 26 different references, which span eight different dial colors and include the option of either traditional or sunray finishes.

Unlike the existing SUB 200 series, which has its own distinct case shape and exists as the brand’s entry-level model, the new Doxa SUB 200T is based upon the cushion-shaped case design of its fan-favorite SUB 300 and SUB300T watches. However, while the entry-level SUB 200 is still a fairly large timepiece at 42mm diameter, the new SUB 200T is specifically intended to be a smaller option for those who want Doxa’s signature aesthetic in a more compact profile. While the overall appearance of the new Doxa SUB 200T is very similar to what you get from the full-size SUB 300 and SUB 300T models, it represents a significant reduction in size, and its 316L stainless steel case measures 39mm in diameter by 10.7mm thick, with 18mm lugs and an overall lug-to-lug profile of 41.5mm.

Similar to the larger SUB 300T, the new Doxa SUB 200T has a flat anti-reflective sapphire crystal fitted above its dial (rather than the box-shaped crystal that is used on the SUB 300), and this gets surrounded by the brand’s signature unidirectional timing bezel with integrated no-decompression limit scale. As usual, a signed screw-down crown is partially recessed into the side of the case at 3 o’clock, while a solid screw-down stainless steel caseback is fitted to the reverse side of the watch. However, to achieve its more compact case profile, the SUB 200T omits the helium escape valve found on the larger SUB 300T series, and it also offers a significantly lower depth rating with 200 meters of water resistance.

Rather than launching the new SUB 200T collection in just a few colorways and trickling the rest of the options out over the course of the next year (which can be incredibly frustrating for prospective buyers), Doxa has structured this release properly and unveiled a vast assortment of options that are all included in the launch. If anything, there might be too many options, although this certainly eliminates the issue of customers buying one version of the watch and then finding out that the brand released a different colorway they prefer just a few months later. The eight dial colors include Professional Orange, Searambler Silver, Sharkhunter Black, Caribbean Navy, Divingstar Yellow, Aquamarine Turquoise, and Whitepearl White, along with Sea Emerald Green, which is a new addition to the brand’s catalog that features gold-finished accents on its hands and hour markers for a more refined overall appearance.

The majority of the colorways available for the new Doxa SUB 200T series are also offered with either a sunray finish on their dials or with the brand’s traditional matte finish (which Doxa calls the “Iconic” style); however, three of the colorways are only available in a single dial finish. The Searambler Silver and Sea Emerald Green dials are exclusively offered with a sunray finish, while Whitepearl White is only available in the matte “Iconic” dial style. Given the visual similarities between white and silver, the decision to only offer one finish for each dial is a logical decision, as there would otherwise be quite a lot of aesthetic overlap. Meanwhile, the golden accents on the Sea Emerald Green dial create an inherently more elevated appearance, and since this is the first time we are seeing this new colorway, it makes sense that Doxa is only offering it in a single finish.

The dials and hands fitted to the new Doxa SUB 200T models offer the same design and layout as what can be found on the larger SUB 300T series, which means that if you opt for one of the traditional dial colors in the brand’s standard “Iconic” matte finish, the resulting watch is very much just a smaller version of Doxa’s signature diver. Unlike the new Sea Emerald Green model that has gold-finished accents, the rest of the various colorways appear in their usual styles, and they are completed by either black or white painted hands and hour markers, while some of the models also feature bright orange minute hands for added contrast. Just as you would expect from a dive watch, all of the hands and indexes on the SUB 200T are finished with Super-LumiNova to offer a clear display of the time in low-light settings, and just like both the SUB 300 and SUB 300T, you also get a window at the 3 o’clock location on the dial.

As usual, Doxa doesn’t offer specifics regarding the movement used inside the new SUB 200T series, although the brand does state that it is Swiss self-winding mechanical caliber with Doxa decorations. With that in mind, based upon its specs, which are listed as having an operating frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours, it is fairly safe to assume that the movement is the familiar Sellita SW200, which can also be found inside a number of the brand’s other watches. Additionally, just like its larger siblings, the new Doxa SUB 200T watches are available with either a stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet or a matching FKM rubber strap, and both options are completed by folding clasps that include integrated wetsuit extension systems.

In terms of pricing, the new Doxa SUB 200T collection is positioned above the entry-level SUB 200 series, although it is slightly less expensive than the larger SUB 300T and priced at $1,550 USD when purchased on a rubber strap, or $1,590 USD should buyers opt for the version that comes with a stainless steel bracelet. Doxa has significantly expanded the aesthetic diversity of its catalog in more recent years, although there were always people like myself who weren’t necessarily looking for additional colorways, but rather simply wanted the classic Doxa experience in a case size that would fit their wrist. The new Doxa SUB 200T pretty much delivers exactly what people have been asking the brand to make for years, and you can now get a 39mm version of the brand’s signature dive watch with both the dial color and finishing of your choice. To learn more about the Doxa SUB 200T collection, please visit the brand’s website.