Breitling revamped the Chronomat collection in 2020, swapping the bulky design elements that previously defined the watch for a sleeker, 1980s-inspired vibe, complete with a flatter bezel, straighter lugs, and the comeback of the Rouleaux-style bracelet. Now, for 2024, Breitling is taking the “sports-chic” aesthetic of the modern Chronomat in a different direction by releasing the first-ever Chronomat 28. The introductory watches will include four different models, three in stainless steel and one in two-tone, each with sustainable and traceable lab-grown diamonds, a mother-of-pearl dial, and a thermo-compensated quartz movement.
First things first: the case. At 28mm in diameter, the newest collection is the smallest Chronomat watch Breitling has ever produced — the next smallest size in the current lineup is 32mm. It aligns with similar offerings from other brands, as it measures 8.46mm tall and 34.6mm across the length of the case from the upper lug tip to the lower lug tip. At the same time, the new Chronomat 28 incorporates all the familiar design elements we have come to expect from Breitling, including the onion-shaped crown (which has two gaskets for 100 meters of water resistance), a cambered sapphire crystal, and the famous “rider tab” bezel. The flatter tabs certainly contribute to the sleeker and more cohesive look Breitling was going for with all the post-2020 models. Still, they are slightly raised to protect the crystal, which isn’t as much of a concern for the modern collector as it might have been for pilots during the collection’s inception in the 1980s, who were known to crack their watch crystals on the metal frame of the plane canopy, and hence, the birth of the Breitling rider tab bezel in the first place. The tabs on the gem-set models are adorned with two brilliant-cut diamonds, while the tabs on the plain bezels have a delicate brushed texture.
As if the 28mm case wasn’t enough to get small-wristed collectors talking, the new Chronomat 28 also features the emblematic Breitling Rouleaux bracelet, which was revived in 2020 during the collection’s redesign. It might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but the new 28mm models wouldn’t be a modern Chronomat without it. The newer-style straight lugs transition effortlessly to the bracelet and feature a beveled and polished edge that mirrors the matching polished and beveled ends of each link. The stainless steel and two-tone models have polished mid-links and a seamless butterfly clasp.
All four variations feature a shimmering mother-of-pearl dial in various shades. The steel and red gold model (ref. U72310531A1U1) sports a slightly more understated white MOP dial, while the stainless steel and diamond bezel model (ref. A72310531G1A1) turns up the drama with a black MOP dial and the steel-on-steel models (ref. A72310101C1A1 and A72310101K1A1) feature blue or pink pastel-colored dials. Each has hands filled with Super-LumiNova, a 60-minute rehaut, and diamond hour markers. Breitling recently launched a campaign to transition its catalog from mined to lab-grown diamonds by 2026, an effort classified as the “Origins label.” Each diamond on these watches falls within that category and will adhere to the CS-007 Sustainability Rated Diamonds standard to ensure the highest quality befitting a women’s Breitling.
Inside the new, svelte case is the Breitling 72 SuperQuartz™ movement, a thermo-compensated quartz caliber that accounts for temperature fluctuations to ensure higher accuracy. These movements are ten times more precise than other quartz movements and even carry a COSC certification. The ETA-based quartz movement has a time-only function and boasts a 3-4-year battery life.
The idea of a 28mm Chronomat is exciting news for women with smaller wrists (myself included). While I think the MOP and diamond models are lovely and perfectly feminine, I’m mostly interested to see if they expand the collection to include plain dials without diamonds, like its slightly larger cousin, the Chronomat 32. I imagine that would be the next move for the Chronomat 28, and it will be relatively successful when it does happen. The Breitling Chronomat 28 is available online and at Breitling boutiques. The collection falls into three pricing categories: the two stainless steel and diamond-less bezel models will retail for $4,800 USD each, the stainless steel and diamond bezel model will retail for $7,000 USD, and the two-tone and diamond bezel model will retail for $10,250 USD. For more information about the Breitling Chronomat 28 watches, please visit the brand’s website.
