In just five short years since its inaugural 13 models, the Code 11.59 collection has welcomed and kicked out a slew of references. Between the current collection, legacy watches (a.k.a. discontinued models), and special editions listed on Audemars Piguet‘s website, I counted almost 90 Code 11.59 references. The newest one to join the party is the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Shades Of Grey watch, a moody iteration of an already existing model that combines two complications, various materials, and yes, even a few colors.
When you look at the dial, do you see a resemblance to Bane from Batman? Or is it just me? Between the AP Spiderman and Black Panther pieces from a few years back and the fact that the Code 11.59 was the supervillain of enthusiasts everywhere (unfairly, might I add) when it made its debut in 2019, I can’t shake off the comic book vibes.
The aesthetic of the dial is thanks in large part to the architecture of the 3 Hz and 65-hour power reserved Caliber 2952, which features an appealing melange of strong lines, geometric patterns, and a palette that runs from light gray to black with touches of pink gold and magenta. The pink gold balance wheel of the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock matches the pink gold hands at both the center and on the transparent 12-hour and 30-minute chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively. The black barrel bridge at 12 o’clock blends into the blackened mainplate whereas the other bridges — rhodium-toned for a silver finish — contrast nicely with the inky background, as do the even lighter gears, wheels, and screws. Finishing off the dial is the slate gray, semi-matte, circular-snailed inner bezel with a white printed seconds scale.
The finishing of the movement is, as expected from Audemars Piguet, top-notch — for instance, according to the brand, there are 111 inner angles on the bridges and decorative elements, all done by hand. I confess I didn’t try to count the 111 instances but I have no reason not to believe it.
The movement and open-worked dial are housed inside a 41mm case that combines white gold and black ceramic. The ultra-thin bezel, caseback ring, and skeletonized lugs are fashioned from 18k white gold while the octagonal middle case and winding crown are made of black ceramic. In true AP form, there are plenty of alternating brushed and polished finishes to add even more design interest to the already visually striking timepiece. The case is 13.8mm thick, water resistant to 30 meters, and furnished with the Code 11.59’s characteristic double curved (and glare-proof) sapphire crystal. Attached to the case is a weave-pattern rubber-coated strap in dark gray, fitted with an 18k white gold folding clasp.
In terms of acceptance within the high-expectations-driven enthusiast circles, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph (ref. 26399NB.OO.D009KB.01) has much to overcome. It checks off plenty of boxes of what vocal watch folks (myself included) are often critical of — tourbillon fatigue, busy skeletonization, eye-popping price tag (CHF 272,500), and perhaps most relevant here, the overall Code 11.59 design. Yet, I find the watch to be quite photogenic, or at least the renders are well executed; the somber colorway and supervillain-esque design suit it well, and like any effective baddie, it has charisma. For more information about the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Shades of Grey watch, please visit the brand’s website.
