Since its rebirth in 2020, Aquastar has resurrected some of the brand’s most cherished models from the 1960s, like the Deepstar Chronograph and Model 60. Now, the brand is taking a massive leap forward in bringing back another classic from the archives. This is the Aquastar Benthos 500 Founders Edition, a center-mounted monopusher chronograph with a bespoke movement developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret.
Original Benthos 500 from 1970
Original Benthos 500 from 1970
The 1960s and 70s are beloved by dive watch collectors for the era’s unbridled experimentation with design and functionality. This was a period when explorers and conservationists like Jacque-Yves Cousteau were household names, and scuba diving was booming in popularity. What a dive watch could or should be were open questions, and brands like Aquastar were coming up with fascinating solutions for timing dives and decompression stops. The Benthos 500, originally released in 1970, is a perfect case in point.
A glance at the 1970 original, with its broad tonneau case, blocky markers, and highly legible timing bezel suggest little out of the ordinary for the era. However, a closer look reveals a pusher at 2 o’clock along with a bright orange center-mounted 60-minute totalizer. Not surprisingly, given its unique functionality (not to mention good looks and rarity), the Benthos 500 is highly sought after by collectors. Yet, bringing this model back to market presented a serious challenge, as there simply are no commercially available center-mounted chronograph movements available for watchmakers. Aquastar’s solution was a collaboration with La Joux-Perret to bring the Benthos 500 back to life with an all-new movement, the Calibre 1MPS.
Rick Marei, the modern owner of Aquastar (and the man previously responsible for reviving another dive watch stalwart, DOXA), explains, “Like many of the innovations pioneered by Aquastar founder Frederic Robert, the Benthos chronograph from 1970 was light years ahead of its time. Its utility was unique in that it was built around a central-mounted chronograph which could present dive time information in a clear and highly legible way. Sadly, the most commonly used modern automatic chronograph movements have not kept up with the ability to present information in such a way, which is why we are so proud to work with our partners at La Joux-Perret to not only revive the Benthos 500 but preserve its unique and incredible chronograph functionality with a new movement that is exclusive to Aquastar.”
Though the newly released Benthos 500 Founders Edition maintains the same 42mm 316L stainless steel case and all the design cues of the original, Aquastar has made a few functional tweaks that will improve the wearing experience. The case thickness has now been reduced to 15.4mm — not bad for a 200m water-resistant dive chronograph that can be operated while underwater — and the lugs slope more towards the wrist, lowering the center of gravity and allowing the watch to sit more comfortably. Given the lug-to-lug distance is only 47mm, this watch should fit well on most wrists. In perhaps the biggest visual change, the crown and chronograph pusher have been swapped, so the pusher now sits at 2 o’clock — a welcome modification that simplifies actuating the chronograph. With the new La Joux-Perret Calibre 1MPS, you also get modern niceties like a 60-hour power reserve. The watch comes mounted on a 22mm ISOfrane rubber strap, which is hard to beat in terms of being both period-correct and exceptionally comfortable.
Though this isn’t the first Benthos we’ve seen from Aquastar — the time-only Benthos Heritage One was released in late 2023 — this is the Benthos that vintage Aquastar aficionados are undoubtedly most excited to see. The development of a new movement with La Joux-Perret also represents a major shift for the brand and gets us excited thinking about what else we might see down the line. The Benthos 500 Founders Edition is available for pre-order for $2,790 USD, with prices rising to $3,790 USD at retail after the pre-order period. For more information on Aquastar and the Benthos 500 Founders Edition, please visit the brand’s website.
