One of the most enthusiast-friendly features on many of the Montblanc Villeret 1858 watches, is the hunter-style case backs that opens to reveal a view of the movement. This is carried over from old pocket watches that often had a cover for both the dial and movement side. However, in this case, the movement is still protected by a sapphire crystal. There is a hidden pusher to open the case back that is actually activated by pulling up on the strap.

Inside the Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Chronograph (ref. 109150) is a totally hand-made and decorated, manually wound movement based on classic Minerva calibers. Operating at 18,000 bph, it has a power reserve of 50 hours, and a nice helping of complications. Of course, there is also the tourbillon. The unique display of the tourbillon cuts away at the dial to an exposed piece of perlage decorated metal. The large diameter tourbillon frames much of the dial. “ExoTourbillon” clearly references the fact that it is open and visible, which, of course, isn’t uncommon, but traditionally, elements like the balance wheel would be on the back of the watch.

The ExoTourbillon Chronographe has two time zone displays. Here is how this works. Time is told regulator style, with a separate dial for the minutes, seconds, and hours. Minutes are told on the main dial using the large minute hand, while hours are told on the dial at 6 o’clock. However, the hour dial actually has two hands. It would be easy to confuse these as an hour and minute hand, but in fact these are hour hands for local and home time. A small 24 hour indicator to the side is used as an AM/PM indicator for the away time.

It goes without saying that the watch has a chronograph. In this case, it is a monopusher chronograph that measures up to 30 minutes. A chronograph minute counter uses a double-sided hand to indicate the minutes 1-15, and then 16-30 as the dial itself is not large enough given the hour subdial. Montblanc wanted the ExoTourbillon Chronographe to be both unique, but at the same time contain complications people are familiar with. Did they succeed?

The watch itself sits large but comfortably on the wrist, sized at 47mm wide. The case is in 18k white gold, and a pusher on the left of the case is used to adjust the second timezone. There is something incredibly old-school about the watch even though it is a novel concept. I think part of this has to do with the fact that little has changed at Minerva in a long time and the cases and movements are still made in a very traditional manner. You certainly get a sense of that when looking at the movement and the overall watch on your wrist. Montblanc has nevertheless retained a sense of “cool” in the concept and made its Villeret 1858 pieces feel like a rare treat. I am always glad to get time with one. Price is $264,500, and again, it is limited to 8 pieces. montblanc.com