Strap

Montblanc offers a choice between a cognac leather strap and a black NATO strap when configuring the 1858 Automatic. There is no price difference between the two options and both will deliver a completely unique look. Personally I feel that this specific reference with its black dial was just better served with a matching black NATO. Maybe it’s what really eased the two-tone look for me, but ultimately it just felt right – especially outdoors.

I will say that the included leather option is enticing and I’d encourage anyone interested in the 1858 to go for it. It’s a classic two-stitch design with a pin buckle and a warm color tone. After all, if you eventually do decide to pair it with a NATO, your own personal favorite would probably be a better match than what Montblanc includes. Here, the 1858 Automatic is paired with a black BluShark NATO and the look just really worked for me. Ideally I’d like for a strap to play a part in encouraging me to wear a watch, and this configuration really made the review experience more enjoyable.

Movement

Inside the Montblanc 1858 Automatic is the MB 24.15 caliber. While this is the internal designator for Montblanc, the movement is in fact a modified Sellita SW200-1 with the seconds feature removed. Again, we know little about how else the movement could have been modified or if there is even any decoration. But it works, and it’s almost liberating when you wear a watch that doesn’t have a running seconds display. Still, the choice feels a little “off the shelf” for the price you’re paying and as I mentioned before, the rotor noise really makes the watch feel significantly less high-end. The MB 24.15 caliber has a 38-hour power reserve and operates at 28,800 bph.

Conclusion

So, with all of these lukewarm elements coming together, what is it that would really lead someone to pull the trigger on the Montblanc 1858 Automatic? Proportions are spot on, legibility is excellent, and the romanticized Minerva aesthetic is very attractive. Is it supposed to be the sense of adventure Montblanc is trying to communicate here? Would that seal the deal for someone looking to live vicariously through their own timepiece? Overall I think it’s a very difficult sell, even though I’m pretty attracted to the watch’s look and feel. During my time with the watch, I kept looking back at the now discontinued Seiko SARB017 Alpinist for comparison. This is a watch with an in-house movement, 200m of water resistance (with a screw-down crown), elaborate case finishing, and an internal compass bezel that’ll help you achieve the whole “mountaineering vibe” for under $500. Although the effort is admirable – and I’m sure some die-hard Minerva geeks might still fall for it – I think it will be difficult for the 1858 Automatic to compete with watches like the Seiko Alpinist and the Field Standard from Orion.

Price for the Montblanc 1858 Automatic ref. 117833 as tested is $2,670. montblanc.com

Necessary Data
>Brand: Montblanc
>Model: 1858 Automatic
>Price: €2,490
>Size: 40mm diameter, 11.07mm thick
>Would reviewer personally wear it: No. There are simply too many high-value options to choose from, which arguably provide a better wearing experience.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Enthusiast with a deep interest in the connection between Montblanc and Minerva seeking a sporty field watch. Perhaps someone that finds brand recognition to be slightly more important than explicit value.
>Best characteristic of watch: Charming dial design with excellent proportions, beautiful cathedral hands, and the vintage-inspired Minerva aesthetic.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Unacceptably loud rotor noise experienced during casual wear. This is a difficult point to address, but many brands at least put in some degree of effort to minimize these effects.