Competition in the entry-level luxury watch space is heating up, especially with TAG Heuer’s renewed focus in this segment of the market under the leadership of Jean-Claude Biver. And then there’s the emergence of smaller but no less ambitious players like Nomos and Oris. For Maurice Lacroix, standing out means being bold and attempting different designs and that’s exactly what we have here with the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Square Wheel Retrograde.

Specifications

Brand: Maurice Lacroix
Model: MP6058-SS001-110-1
Dimensions: 43mm (diameter), 15mm (height)
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal/Lens: Sapphire
Movement: In-house self-winding open-work caliber ML258
Frequency: 4Hz
Power Reserve: 36 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator leather strap with Easychange strap
Price & Availability: $7,490

Analysis

This isn’t the first Maurice Lacroix with a square gear on the dial for the running seconds. But it is the first time that they have combined their unique square gear running seconds with a retrograde display. The end result is a watch that has a dial unlike any other. Aesthetically, these watches are quite pleasing. The color combinations of silver and blue, and black and gold are well judged and striking without necessarily being too gaudy. Legibility seems quite good too, though I suspect it can be quite hard to run the hour hand from 8 to 10 o’clock when it is directly over the square gear running seconds.

Speaking of which, the square gear running seconds as well as the accompanying clover-shaped gear is the highlight of the watch and it is definitely a unique one since I can’t think of any other watch with a similar configuration. Watch lovers who like to see the inner-workings of their pieces or who prefer some sort of ‘activity’ on the dial will likely appreciate this feature. Other features include its sapphire display caseback, which offers a view of the in-house made ML258 self-winding caliber; and its 100m water resistance, which means one need not worry about splashes or even taking it swimming. Also worth mentioning is the “Easychange” strap system, which allows for quick swapping of straps. All these are features that improve the wearability and usability of the watch.

Summary

The unusual and quirky dial of the Square Wheel Retrograde is one that will surely divide opinions. I think it’s one of those watches you either love or hate, but there’s no denying that it is special and that there’s nothing else quite like it at its price point. The Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel Retrograde is priced at $7,490. mauricelacroix.com