The action-packed “Kingsman” film series is no stranger to influencing the world of style, with each film in the franchise spawning limited-run releases of screen-worn attire from some of the world’s top fashion brands. For the latest installment, the prequel “The King’s Man,” due to release in September 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a custom timepiece inspired by its classic 1907 “Couteau” pocket watch. The resulting limited-edition Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife presents a truly timeless look, combining classic style with dynamic, razor-sharp case design.
While the 40mm pink-gold case of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife takes the time-worn approach of grafting lugs to a central pocket watch style case design, the execution is far more elegant than many attempts of this type. First and foremost, the “Couteau” design this is based on is no ordinary pocket watch, with a broad, sloping bezel featuring an engraved accent ring midway through. This gradual slope continues all the way from the crystal to the edge of the case, resulting in a sharp edge that gives the design its name. Even at its thickest point, however, the case is only 4.25mm-thick. The 12 o’clock crown features a stylized and potentially divisive arch-shaped loop connected to the small coin-edged pillbox. While undoubtedly standing as a visual statement piece for the design and reinforcing the pocket watch connection, the crown adds a potentially ungainly note to an otherwise slim and classical piece. The attached lugs, however, pose no such problem, with an elegantly narrow profile that fades nicely into the visual background.
Like the case, the dial of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife feels very much at home with its early 20th-century inspiration, but the interpretation here is far less literal. While the original “Couteau” featured Roman numerals and Breguet hands, the Knife takes a cleaner, more graphical approach. An outer railroad minutes track keeps things firmly anchored in the past, visually, supplemented by tapering printed indices. A set of blued leaf hands completes the look, providing a handsome bit of contrast with the warm tones of the rest of the design.
Jaeger-LeCoultre outfits the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife with its in-house hand-wound JLC 849 movement. At only 1.85mm-thick, the JLC 849 is an impressive piece of engineering, featuring a two-spoke Gluycdur balance and Nivarox 1 hairspring. In spite of its thinness, the JLC 849 still manages a reasonable 35-hour power reserve at a 21,600 bph beat rate.
In keeping with the classic style of the watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre mounts the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife on a handsome mahogany-brown alligator-leather strap with matching pink-gold pin buckle. In order to accommodate the elaborate 12 o’clock crown, the strap features a wide cutout that should make strap-changing near impossible, however, likely requiring a unique spring bar solution. That said, as far as unchangeable straps go, this complements the watch well.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a stunningly unique piece with the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife, drawing from its own rich history to create a movie star watch with a distinctive and refined personality. Only 100 examples will be made, which will be available exclusively through online menswear retailer MR PORTER from July 20 until September 6, 2020, at which point remaining models will be available through Jaeger-LeCoultre authorized dealers. MSRP for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife stands at $29,800. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.