To many “non-watch” people, the IWC Portuguese Chronograph Classic looks like an ordinary gold or steel watch with a conservative character. You can show them otherwise by turning the watch over and showing them the movement that is visible through the sapphire exhibition window. The movement in the IWC Portuguese Chronograph Classic is great looking, but has a unique visual style that in our opinion sits somewhere between Swiss and German mechanical movements. That shouldn’t be a surprise though as IWC is located in Schaffhausen, which is in Switzerland, but near Germany. It is a unique location for Swiss watch making as most of the Swiss watch industry is located in the French, versus German-speaking parts of the country.

The IWC caliber 89361 is an automatic chronograph movement that contains some interesting points of interest to movement lovers. The movement itself has a high-end industrial feels that appears more machine-like than decorative. I actually like the finishing on the movement and the prominent use of large gears and machined surfaces. You certainly get a confident feel looking at it, and the level of detail is intriguing to say the least. The movement operates at a modern 4Hz and has 68 hours of power reserve coupled with the Pellaton winding system in the automatic rotor.

The chronograph is where things get interesting. First of all, from a functional perspective, the caliber 89361 offers a full 12 hour chronograph in two sub dials. That is because the upper sub dial has two hands, one for counting the minutes, and another for counting the hours. The lower sub dial on the dial is used for the running seconds of the time. The fully integrated chronograph (does not use a base movement and module) is very modern in its execution.

The chronograph uses a vertical clutch as well as a column wheel. IWC actually refers to the system as being a double-clutch because there is a separate coupling for the chronograph seconds hand, and chronograph hours and minutes hands. The effect of the double clutch and column wheel are to increase reliability over time, as well as to decrease a loss is movement amplitude when the chronograph is activated which helps preserve accuracy. These complicated systems are uncommon to find in most chronograph movements. While column wheel transmissions are more and more common, vertical clutches are still rare. IWC wanted to make sure that its in-house chronograph movements were technically as modern as could be, which again is sort of ironic being inside of a “Classic” watch, but I don’t hear anyone complaining.

Even if you aren’t able to appreciate the intricate complexities of the movement and the long history of the Portuguese collection (a story for another time), the IWC Portuguese Chronograph Classic is easily a satisfying piece when you take into consideration its handsome looks and fascinating movement. IWC once again has produced a solid looking and feeling men’s watch, that here is about conservative, timeless appeal. It is one of many such pieces that the brand offers, so it is difficult to indicate that “this” is the watch to own from the brand. Though as we said back when we introduced the Chronograph Classic collection, this may just be the “new” Portuguese to own given its increased size dimensions and inclusion of the in-house IWC movement.

This particular IWC Portuguese Chronograph Classic is the reference IW390402 in the 18k red gold case with silver dial and it has a price of $24,200. The Portuguese Chronograph Classic collection has an entry-level price point of $13,000 with the steel model. iwc.com

Necessary Data
>Brand: IWC
>Model: Portuguese Chronograph Classic
>Price: $13,000 – $24,200
>Size: 42mm
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Seasoned watch lover looking for a classic looking daily wear with a chronograph.
>Best characteristic of watch: Great movement (that looks great) with perfectly proportioned dial.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Case maybe be too ‘chunky’ for some as a dress watch and dial would be better if it had luminant.