In 2001, Seiko launched a project called “Issey Miyake Watch.” The concept is fairly simple. Under the careful creative eye of (you guessed it) Issey Miyake of the famed Miyake Design Studio, a world-class designer is selected and tasked with creating a watch bearing his or her unique design language. However, there are some criteria to consider. First, it must be a “fresh” design by Miyake standards. Second, it must be analog and created in Japan. Thirdly, the designer must be directly involved in the watch’s packaging. The marketing of this project is rather vague and non-specific, albeit fun and interesting. The collection has produced some hits and misses for me, personally, but there’s no doubt about the unique creative direction of each piece in the collection. Enter the Issey Miyake Nao Tamura 1/6 Watch, a slick new addition to this fun collaborative.
The designer of the 1/6 watch is Nao Tamura, the first female designer the project has seen, which I feel is significant. We don’t see enough women taking center stage in the design segment of the watch industry, so this is a great step in that direction. Tamura arrived at the name “1/6” due to the 3-Hz movement being six beats per second. Interestingly enough though, she claims the influence for the 1/6 is traditional measuring tools like beakers and glasses. She wanted to hearken back to a time without digital measurements, when we used our hands to operate measuring tools. In that regard, I feel she succeeded. The first thing enthusiasts are going to notice is the unique case and its “measuring tools.”
Available in stainless steel with or without a black PVD coating, my eyes were immediately drawn to the minute/second track placed in a peculiar location: on the outside of the bezel and case. I’m not sure I would call it the most practical utilization of a chapter ring, but I suppose the argument could be made that it’s unique as a design element. The round case measures in at a rather large 43mm x 11mm. The height is largely due to the fact that the case sits on top of the lugs instead of between them. Aesthetically, I find it a fun feature paired with the mesh bracelet.
From a wearability standpoint, I struggle with the idea that this will look and feel like a hockey puck on the wrist. No doubt this will contour nicely with a smaller wrist, but at 43mm, it’s certainly not designed for one. It’s not particularly specified, but I imagine moving the lugs underneath the case allows for a much easier process of adjusting the time. Considering the crown is at 6 o’ clock, theoretically, there would be ample space to tilt the wrist, pull the crown, adjust, and push without ever taking the watch off your wrist. Again, from a purely design and functional standpoint, this is a cool feature. From a practical standpoint, I’m not sure I get it, though I’ll reserve any stark opinion until I see it in the metal. The watch is also rated for up to 5 bar water resistance.
The dial is one of my favorite features of the watch and where I find the most direct design influence. Available in either case style, the dial is available in either black with blue accents, or white with red accents. My favorite of the models is the stainless steel and black dial. While I enjoy the white dial, there is something oddly medical about it. The half-sunken chapter ring features every single mark the seconds, minute, and hour hands can make. Each second marker of the chapter ring contains five smaller markers between them, literally tracing every beat of the movement, and in another fun design element, the hour track has been moved to the inside of the dial with a cross-hair pattern. From 6 to 12 o’ clock is another micro-measurement unit that pairs nicely with the hollow hour hand. Again, perhaps not the most practical, but visually enticing nonetheless. Overall, the dial is busy but still remains coherent.
The three hand watch does not include a date, even though the NH35A includes a date wheel. I actually agree with this decision, as I don’t feel there is an opportune location to make a date work in the overall aesthetic. As stated earlier, the NH35A beats at 21,600 VpH, or six beats per second. The movement features 41 jewels and a generous power reserve of 41 hours.
Overall, I find the 1/6 to be a unique addition to the Issey Miyake Watch Project. From a pure design standpoint, it’s obvious that a lot of time and effort has gone into the aesthetics of the 1/6. The loupe-requiring details of the dial markers give the watch an interesting utilitarian reminder of how intricate these little machines are. Tamura explains it best: “In this era in which time seems to fleet away as devices like smartphones have become a necessity in our everyday life, I wanted to design a watch that allows us to surely feel the time ticking.”
Price for the Issey Miyake Nao Tamura 1/6 ranges from $660-$770. The gray stainless 1/6 in leather is the cheapest at $660. The gray stainless 1/6 with Milanese bracelet and the black PVD-coated 1/6 on a leather strap come in at $700. The Black PVD 1/6 coated with Milanese bracelet comes in at $770. You can read more about the project and this watch at isseymiyake-watch.com.
