In a large room with undivided work spaces, craftspeople apply art to high-end horology at La Fabrique du Temps in Geneva. They call the space “La Fabrique des Arts,” and it is an apt description of what happens here. Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps has assembled a dream team of experienced artisans to make their luxury timepieces among the most beautiful and elaborate in the world. This is where the most exclusive Louis Vuitton, Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth watches have their dials (and sometimes cases and movements) engraved, painted, or otherwise decorated.
Much of the mechanical movement decoration that most enthusiasts think about involves special polishes and finishings to the mostly metal components that make up a traditional mechanical watch. That actually happens at La Fabrique des Mouvements departs in La Fabrique du Temps, which is where craftspeople take up two entire rooms to make the metal as beautiful as possible. La Fabrique des Arts team members participate in more artistic endeavors that often result in the application of beautiful compositions or textures that combine daily imagery and the natural world with a mechanical timepiece. A good example of this art is miniature enamel paintings and engravings, as well as machine guilloche engraving for dials and movement bridges. Artisans at La Fabrique des Arts also have experience with miniature mosaic work, stone- and gem-setting, and a variety of painting techniques.
More important is the autonomy and feedback that the artists have with the overall design process of Louis Vuitton and other watches. The team of artists not only works together to apply multiple layers of talent to a single object but also contributes to creating new techniques and styles that timepiece designers can then utilize in the creation of upcoming novelties. It is relatively rare for such artisans to have such a deep level of involvement not only in their own craft but also with the overall capabilities of the studio and how fresh ideas are implemented into products. After just a few years in operation, the La Fabrique des Arts department team has demonstrated how brand-new ideas can result from the application of traditional crafts. The exclusive, limited-production watches already released by the studio under mainly the Louis Vuitton brand have dazzled enthusiasts and demonstrated what the result of hundreds of collective hours of talent and effort can result in.
aBlogtoWatch visited the La Fabrique des Arts department at La Fabrique du Temps and asked the team to explain a bit more about what they do and why timepiece enthusiasts should know about it. The products they create aren’t merely intended to express technique, but according to them are designed to convey strong emotion as well as storytelling about the shared world around us (all in a high-end and exclusive, wearable luxury package). Here is what La Fabrique du Temps had to say about their impressive La Fabrique des Arts department:
aBlogtoWatch: How much of the Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps floor space is dedicated to craftspeople and machinery intended exclusively for the decoration of mechanical movements and the application of artisanal crafts to timepieces?La Fabrique du Temps: We now have four dedicated spaces at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton: La Fabrique des Arts, La Fabrique des Mouvements, La Fabrique des Boîtiers, and La Fabrique des Cadrans. Decoration of mechanical movement components takes place in both La Fabrique des Mouvements—where two entire rooms in the second manufacture building are exclusively dedicated to perlage, côtes de Genève, anglage, and other fine finishing techniques—and in the watchmaking ateliers, where the watchmaker himself performs certain decoration tasks directly on the movement. This ensures each timepiece reflects an exceptional level of craftsmanship at every stage.
aBlogtoWatch: Who are some of the key personalities who work in the La Fabrique des Arts department at La Fabrique du Temps? What is their experience and why were they asked to join the team?
La Fabrique du Temps: We are fortunate to collaborate with some of the most accomplished experts in artistic crafts. Among them is Dick Steenman, who leads our engraving department, bringing years of experience and mastery in this intricate art. Nicolas Doublel, one of the most renowned enamellers, joined La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton a few years ago to create exceptional dials that push the boundaries of his craft. We also have experts in guillochage, whose precision and skill bring unique texture and depth to our timepieces.
These artisans are drawn to La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton not only for our commitment to craftsmanship but also because they have the opportunity to work across various techniques and innovate through collaboration. Working on shared projects with other artisans allows them to blend skills and explore new creative approaches, making La Fabrique du Temps a place where tradition and innovation in High Watchmaking come together seamlessly.
aBlogtoWatch: La Fabrique du Temps is involved in the exercise of traditional haute horology decoration as well as the development of new techniques and aesthetics. What are some of the novel or contemporary artistic techniques practiced or even developed here?
La Fabrique du Temps: At La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, we collaborate with exceptional and talented artists specializing in techniques such as engraving and various enameling methods, including paillonné, champlevé, cloisonné, plique-à-jour, and technique de Genève. Some artisans, like Dick Steenman and Taemi Tanaka Muller, are part of the in-house team, while for specific projects, such as the Escale Cabinet of Wonders, we also work with external experts to support the métiers d’art with rare and specialized techniques. We develop and coordinate the combination of multiple métiers on a single dial entirely in-house—a complex approach that sets us apart by merging various crafts in unique ways. This in-house orchestration of multiple artisanal techniques creates truly distinctive timepieces.
aBlogtoWatch: How does the larger Louis Vuitton brand universe influence or have an impact on the métier d’ art applied to Louis Vuitton haute horology products?
La Fabrique du Temps: Louis Vuitton has an exceptional history that continuously inspires the métier d’art applied to its High Watchmaking creations. The rich storytelling of the Louis Vuitton family often guides our designs; for example, the Escale collection draws inspiration from Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the third generation of the family. The Escale Cabinet of Wonders, in particular, was born from his passion for Japanese art and culture, especially the Tsubas, and each dial showcases the monogram designed by Gaston-Louis Vuitton.
The broader Louis Vuitton universe deeply influences us, as seen in the Escale Cabinet of Wonders, where the Maison’s heritage led us to explore the challenging technique of combining multiple métiers d’art on a single dial. This complex approach highlights our dedication to unique craftsmanship and sets us apart within the industry.
aBlogtoWatch: What are Louis Vuitton’s primary artistic goals with decorated watches when it comes to the emotions and impact these products have on the intended consumer?
La Fabrique du Temps: The goal is to evoke a deep emotional response in the customer. Behind each exceptional Louis Vuitton watch lies a story, countless hours of meticulous work, and the expertise of artisans from La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Each person who owns a Louis Vuitton watch understands and values the inspiration and remarkable craftsmanship that went into creating the unique piece they are wearing. The aim is to offer not just a decorated watch, but a timepiece with a story—a creation where the artistry of its makers is what the consumer treasures most.
aBlogtoWatch: Many artistic techniques be they painting or engraving can require huge amounts of time. Can you give some examples of particular parts and components, and how many hours it takes to finish each one?
La Fabrique du Temps: The Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders – Koi’s Garden, crafted in-house at La Fabrique des Arts, highlights rare artisanal techniques that demand considerable time and dedication. Featuring two koi carp meticulously sculpted from white gold, each scale, fin, and whisker is engraved by hand in a process that takes more than 150 hours. The koi are then kiln-fired to add a dark oxide layer, selectively hand-polished to reveal glimmers of the white gold beneath, and finally coated in a translucent blue lacquer. Another example within the Louis Vuitton Cabinet of Wonders is the Dragon’s Cloud, showcasing the rare art of damascening, where contrasting metals create layered, natural textures. The dial plate is hammered to a matte finish, inlaid with yellow-gold and rose-gold wires, then hand-finished. The dragon and clouds are engraved and polished for intricate detail, with scales adorned in delicate paillonné enamel containing fine gold leaf. The dragon’s eye, a cabochon-cut ruby, glows red, held by a fold of its golden eyelid, embodying the dragon’s symbolism of power and wisdom through these revived artisanal techniques.
aBlogtoWatch: How does the artist team at La Fabrique du Temps push themselves to make the next watch even more impressive than the last? And how does the team train each other as well as develop training for the next generation of artisans?
La Fabrique du Temps: Creativity is key at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. We constantly push the boundaries, making La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton a true laboratory of ideas. When a development is validated and launched, the whole team is ready to undertake the next challenge. The guiding principles for our developers are quality, reliability, and aesthetics. Progression is essential across all workshops at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, fueling talent development. In the watchmaking department, all watchmakers work within the same atelier, which fosters the transmission of expertise. Similarly, at La Fabrique des Arts, artisans from all métiers d’art share the same space. As they work on the same pieces through different stages, they must interact closely, combining their skills to bring each project to life.
aBlogtoWatch: How important is doing things by hand at Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps? And how does that influence how products are designed and crafted?
La Fabrique du Temps: At La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, each watch is assembled by a single watchmaker, ensuring an exceptional level of quality for the final customer. Craftsmanship is central to our vision, as many tasks can only be accomplished by hand—things that machines simply cannot replicate. Manual finishing is at the heart of Louis Vuitton’s values and defines the artistry of our watches. This dedication to handcrafting extends to every part of the watch: movement components, case, dial, and even the strap, which features hand stitching. These manual finishings not only enhance the aesthetic but also make each watch truly unique.
aBlogtoWatch: At what level does Louis Vuitton aim to position its artistic timepiece products? Is there a particular market segment or intended customer? And how rare are Louis Vuitton’s most elite watches?
La Fabrique du Temps: We position our artistic timepieces in the very high-end and “high watchmaking” segment. Our watches are true works of art; while we don’t exclusively offer limited editions, production remains limited due to the intricate hand-finishing and the scale of La Fabrique du Temps. We’ve recently pushed boundaries in Métiers d’Art with creations like the Escale Cabinet of Wonders, which stands at the pinnacle of the Métiers d’Art segment. Each dial is exceptionally complex, combining three métiers d’art techniques in a single piece and achieving intricate volumes, requiring close collaboration among artisans. Among our most exclusive and rare pieces are the pocket watches, which highlight our best expertise in automata and métiers d’art, representing the ultimate expression of our craftsmanship.
Learn more at the Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps website.