Photography by Jacob Witkin
At Watches and Wonders 2024, TAG Heuer announced a new batch of Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph 34mm watches that are smaller and noticeably dressier than their 40mm counterparts but just as capable in terms of performance and tech. The Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph joined the TAG Heuer catalog in 2022, and the brand has continued to expand its line of solar-powered quartz divers with fresh iterations. We went hands-on with three of the newest models, ranging from sporty blue to swanky mother-of-pearl with diamonds.
Adding midsize versions of watches is not new by any means but it has been something that we’ve seen more of in recent years. Diversifying collections with various size options is a straightforward way to appeal to a wider audience, which rings especially true today given the current inclinations toward smaller watches for men and larger ones for women. The cases of these compact Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph models measure 34mm in diameter, 40.6mm lug-to-lug, and 9.7mm thick — comfortable proportions for small and midsize wrists. TAG Heuer explicitly markets these as “designed for both men and women.”
While men can certainly wear the watches, there are a few that are — at least to my eye — designed with women in mind. For instance, the mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour markers is quite feminine, as is the non-diamond set mother-of-pearl version. The rich blue option is my favorite out of the three and a dive watch with a blue dial just makes sense. Zooming in on the dial, we can see that nice sunburst finish and turquoise (or Polar Blue in TAG Heuer speak) accents, such as the seconds hand, minute track plots, and SOLARGRAPH inscription, are charming touches.
Now, as these watches are light-powered, the transparent dials have concealed solar panels below them to capture sun rays. As such, one thing that stands out on these watches is how thick the dials are; the date window is set in pretty deep compared to a standard dial. I would imagine if those date disks were color-matched rather than stark white, the depth wouldn’t be as noticeable.
Powering the new 34mm Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph is the Caliber TH50-01 solar-powered quartz movement, manufactured exclusively for TAG Heuer in collaboration with La Joux-Perret. The movement charges with either natural or artificial light and only requires two minutes of direct sunlight for a full-day charge. Less than 40 hours of sunlight exposure and the movement will continue to run for up to 10 months without any light at all. Plus, if the watch stops running, all it takes is ten seconds of light exposure to get going again. Although La Joux-Perret is a well-established Swiss movement manufacturer, it is owned by Citizen, a brand famous for its Eco-Drive solar-powered watches; so, I suspect plenty of top-notch solar tech is being shared from the mother company to the movement maker.
While the 12-sided bezels of the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph 34mm retain the overall signature silhouette, a few details make these dressier than their 40mm tool-watch siblings. For instance, the bezels are polished rather than brushed and the engraved numerals are sandblasted and not lumed. Furthermore, alternating between the numerals are raised bezel tabs, also featuring sandblasted centers. In short, the bezels on the 34mm versions are much more ornate than those affixed to the 40mm Solargraphs. An alluring mix of brushed and polished surfaces are found throughout the watches, from the case flanks and lugs to the three-link bracelets with folding clasps.
It’s been 20 years since the creation of the Aquaracer name and the collection has grown to include a wide range of dive models — over 60 by my last count. The Solargraph subset is an appealing option for those who enjoy solar-powered watches and the addition of smaller options is in my book, always welcomed. Sure, with prices that start at $2,150 USD and top out at $5,000 USD for the diamond versions, there are less expensive solar-powered pieces on the market. However, I would expect these good-looking and well-built sporty diving watches to be an attractive proposition for newer and/or younger watch buyers who want the practicality of charging by light with the cachet of a big-name Swiss brand like TAG Heuer. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.
