Although there’s no shortage of dual-crown “compressor” dive watches on the current market, very few of these designs actually meet the definition for compressor cases. The recently revived Sherpa brand is one of the exceptions to this rule, creating a series of rugged, capable divers based on ‘60s-era design principles created by EPSA that allow the watch to become more water resistant as greater pressure is applied. The latest iteration of this classic compressor formula, designed in collaboration with “The Real Time Show” podcast, adds a newly coating-free matte blasted case for an old-school purposeful look, alongside impressive detailing and vividly colorful accents. The Sherpa x TRTS OPS offers a lighter, less aggressive take on the Sherpa OPS formula, while maintaining the versatile, capable compressor construction at the heart of the brand.
Although the 40mm wide, 13.5mm thick dimensions of the stainless steel Sherpa x TRTS OPS case might seem middle-of-the-road on paper, during actual wear this case is noticeably larger than the dimensions might suggest. This comes down to a handful of reasons – first and foremost, the finishing. Without the black coating of the standard OPS, the fully matte blasted case is brighter on the wrist and misses out on the slimming power of black. In addition, the narrow sloping bezel and long, rounded chamfered lugs work to maximize both the perceived dial size and the overall case footprint on the wrist. Lastly, there’s the dual crown assembly itself. Between the 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock crowns, Sherpa adds a beefy, continuous crown guard, which lends a purposeful sense of mass to an otherwise lithe, restrained case design. These crowns are one of the telltale signs of the watch’s impressive case construction, however. Despite a dive-ready 200 meters of water resistance, neither of these crowns has a screw-down function, and the action on both is smooth, light, and pleasant. The other giveaway is the broad, clearly visible black gasket between the case and the old-school box sapphire crystal. Together with the bayonet-locking EPSA-STOP caseback design, these elements create a tighter seal around the movement and dial of the watch as greater pressure is applied, allowing for high water resistance without the heavier construction of a traditional dive watch case. Speaking of this caseback, Sherpa tops it with an old-school engraved diving helmet motif emblazoned with the TRTS initials.
While the Sherpa x TRTS OPS’s case may take a new direction for the brand, the dial is more or less identical to previous versions. This is far from a bad thing, as the base Sherpa OPS dial is graphic, punchy, and impressively balanced. The internal rotating dive bezel grabs most of the attention here, thanks to its generous use of attractively printed blazing signal orange accents as well as the blocky slate gray and white pattern that covers the first 15 minutes of the minutes scale. This blockiness continues to the graphic indices, which alternate between printed white squares and pale khaki luminous rectangles. It’s more reserved than most khaki fauxtina, but it goes a long way toward giving the matte-black dial surface a warmer character on the wrist. The needle-style matte orange central seconds hand also forms a natural focal point, keeping the most crucial timekeeping information front and center for legibility. Interestingly, rather than black text for the 3 o’clock date display, the date wheel is printed in a deep burgundy red – it’s a small touch, but one that gives the Sherpa x TRTS OPS a richer, more unique personality.
The Sherpa x TRTS OPS is powered by a customized Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, which the brand refers to as the Mantramatic MM01. Some enthusiasts may balk at an SW200-1 appearing in this price bracket, and it’s a fair concern to have, given the relatively low 38-hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate. That said, Sherpa also includes the world’s first “prayer wheel” complication in this movement. Two wheels in the gear train are microscopically engraved with “Om mani peme hung,” a Tibetan Buddhist mantra meant to bring peace, wisdom, and purity into the world. According to Buddhist tradition, as these wheels rotate, this prayer is radiated out into the world. I can’t necessarily report I felt more peaceful or enlightened while wearing the TRTS OPS, but it’s a nice sentiment. To complete the package, the Sherpa x TRTS OPS is fitted with a suitably old-school rubber tropic strap. Our sample arrived with a classic black strap, but options are available in olive drab, cream white, and signal orange as well. It’s difficult to imagine a strap option that would fit the character of this watch better, and the rubber used here is extremely soft, flexible, and comfortable right out of the box.
Despite the popularity of the dual-crown compressor-style look, it’s a struggle to find a modern watch that uses the unique EPSA-derived compressor case construction. Among these, the Sherpa x TRTS OPS is a true standout, with high-quality construction, bold-yet-balanced graphic design, and an authentically retro feel. The Sherpa x TRTS OPS is available now through authorized dealers at a not-insubstantial MSRP of $6,400 USD as of press time. For more details, please visit the brand’s website.
