Independent brand Sartory-Billard is the kind of brand I like to write about not only because of its unique evolution (it has pivoted more than once) but also because I think the style of its latest watches is really hip. Sartory-Billard is not a large brand, but it is also entirely open to having a broad spectrum of price points. The last Sartory-Billard watches I wrote about were elaborate tourbillon-based models priced around $100,000 USD. Today I am writing about the new entry-level collection of watches known as the Sartory-Billard SB04-E (not the sexiest name, I know), which are well under $5,000 USD. What do these various Sartory-Billard watches have in common? That’s a good question. In addition to zealously chasing some of the better timepiece part suppliers in Switzerland for components, the designers of these watches all emphasize a focus on exceptional finishing and a modern wearing experience based on using classic shapes, proportions, and materials. Some people might use the term “casual elegance” to describe the style of the watches. I see the Sartory-Billard watches as the result of someone with an exacting eye for visual details who wants to make sure products at the high-end range of the brand as well as at the entry price point all have dials that sparkle and impress.

Most of the value of these watches is probably in the dials and hands. These are not the most expensive hands or dials that Sartory-Billard makes, but given the price points, I would guess that most of the value of the watches is in these areas. The steel cases are pretty nice but have slightly sharpish backs on account of the deep laser cutting that can leave rough edges without a further polishing process. The inwardly curved bezel around the case is very nicely polished and makes it look both more expensive and thinner on the wrist. The case is also sporty, and water resistant to 100 meters with a screw-down crown. Note that there is lume paint on the crowns themselves, so if you look closely (and this area gets enough light) the avant-garde infinity logo will glow.

The Sartory-Billard SB04-E is an entry-level product for the brand, but it is also among the more expensive watches out there to use the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic mechanical movement. This Swiss Made movement is a slightly lower-priced alternative to a movement like the Sellita SW200 but is more high-end than the Miyota 9000 series of Japanese-crafted movements which they are based on (Citizen of Japan owns both Miyota and La Joux-Perret). I would say the primary reason brands use the La Joux-Perret G101 is not its low relative price, but rather its availability. Companies like Switzerland’s ETA don’t sell much to third parties outside of the Swatch Group, and Sellita’s SW200 movement production units often go to larger brands who order high volumes of units – leaving few left for smaller brands like Sartory-Billard. If they were to purchase time-only movements from a company like Swiss Vaucher, then the SB04-E watches would have been priced significantly more. Just saying all that to help understand how brands make movement choices these days when they cannot make movements partially or entirely in-house. The G101 automatic movement operates at 4Hz with 68 hours of power reserve. You can see the movement through the caseback on the rear of the watch.

Also on the rear of the steel case is a sort of fluted pattern around the sapphire crystal window. I believe this element is intended to create more sparkle and light. I don’t mind the sentiment, but the design is a bit sharp and not entirely original. As I mentioned above, one of the few negatives of the watch is the slightly rough-feeling caseback, and this design element doesn’t exactly help that. I like the use of this space to create more reflections and create artistic interest, but I think a more original motif would have been better. At best, this fluting looks like it is meant to be gripped to unscrew the caseback, but this isn’t even that type of case. Instead, it uses a series of screws to hold down the caseback.

At 39.5mm wide, 10.3mm thick, and with a modest 46mm long lug-to-lug distance the Sartory-Billard SB04-E is naturally going to feel comfortable on the wrist. It is very much mid-sized and is designed to work well with long sleeves. Over the dial is a flat AR-coated sapphire crystal. I suspect that the right domed sapphire crystal (“right” meaning the correct application of anti-reflective coating and no-distortion shape) would have elevated the look of the watch just a tiny bit more. That said, getting just the right style of crystal would have been hard to do, and getting it wrong would introduce much more glare and thus cheapen the look of the entire composition. So, perhaps with more research and development Sartory-Billard can offer perfectly rounded sapphire crystals at this price point.

Before I talk about the lovely dials and the variations between the “Coeur de Rubis” and the Tantalum dial version of the SB04-E, I want to mention the strap choice. Sartory-Billard went with shaped high-quality 20mm-wide rubber straps and matching spring-loaded butterfly-style deployants from the company Delugs. These work pretty well on the case, and I like how they have a curved end that allows them to sit more harmoniously against the side of the case at the lugs. The concept of the spring-loaded clasps is not new but is executed really well here. I first saw these being used on Chanel watches, but Richard Mille made them popular for the even higher-end watch crowd. The downside is that the straps must be cut to size (which is a pain and prevents sharing). The upside is that apparently there is a voucher with the watches to get one additional Delugs rubber strap set for free.

The dials of the SB04-E watches are the most impressive element of these timepieces and to start, Sartory-Billard offers two versions. There will be more styles in the future, and I believe these models may be available for bespoke creations, which is a major part of the brand. That means if you like the style but want different colors or center materials, then you can ask the brand to make them for you. The dials consist of a central section that, in this instance, is offered in the distinctive form of red ruby stone, as well as in textured tantalum metal. The ruby dial costs a bit more because of the rarity of the particular form of the mineral. The tantalum metal is hand-engraved to result in the texture. The hands on the dial are nice, but not as nice as the much more expensive Sartory-Billard watches. My suspicion is that those hands cost more than these watches. The hands on the SB04-E are painted with Super-LumiNova luminant. The resulting dials are sensible, legible, and decorative — an admirable result.

Sartory-Billard explains that the SB04-E models are a limited series but does not share any specific details about how many of each will be made. The company is not a large-volume operation, so it makes sense that there will never be too many of these in circulation. The SB04-E is not a perfect product, but it is designed to be aggressively priced and offers a welcoming entry point for a brand that is currently the most comfortable when creating much more elaborate creations. It is rare to find such high-end dials in watches designed to be accessible, which is why I think the Sartory-Billard SB04-E watches are worth knowing about. I look forward to seeing how Sartory-Billard evolves the SB04-E watches with their future creations. Price for the Sartory-Billard SB04-E with the ruby and platinum dial is $4,850 USD. Price for the SB04-E with the hand-engraved tantalum dial is $3,650 USD. Learn more at the Sartory-Billard website.