No brand does flashy gold watches quite like Rolex does. How many of us have childhood memories of older relatives wearing a glistening yellow-gold Rolex, understanding that that shiny timepiece signaled something important? For me, it was my grandfather’s cousin, whose gold Day-Date not only entered the room before he did, but because he wore it super loose, it also always had a habit of popping out from whatever kind of sleeves he was sporting that day. I often imagined his watch dropping into the fondue we regularly shared as a family, fishing it out with my cheese-dripping trident, and yelling out the French equivalent of “finders keepers.” I guess watches always took up some space in my brain, even at a young age. Despite all the hyped steel sports watches that Rolex peddles these days, the gold dress pieces are still a massive part of its catalog. And for the brand’s biggest, boldest, and baddest gold dress watch, there’s the Rolex Sky-Dweller. Stepping out for the first time with a matching 18k yellow gold Jubilee bracelet at Watches & Wonders 2024, it’s surprising that it took Rolex this long to marry a yellow Sky-Dweller with its famed bracelet because they’re obviously made for each other. We went hands-on with the yellow gold Rolex Sky-Dweller 336938 watch with a Jubilee bracelet and white dial to review how this modern gold brick stacks up against the Crown’s other yellow precious-metal pieces.
First impressions are yep, that’s a yellow gold Rolex alright. From the round Oyster case and familiar fluted bezel to the bulging Cyclops lens and five-link Jubilee, it has all the markings of a classic Rolex. Yet, the Sky-Dweller isn’t a classic like the Datejust or Day-Date (even though it shares more than a handful of design traits when them). It’s far newer and more complex. Like all previous Sky-Dweller watches, this gold case clocks in at 42mm in diameter, larger than the Day-Date 40 and Datejust 41. Other important measurements to consider are the 50.5mm lug-to-lug length and 14mm thickness. These proportions take up a sizeable piece of real estate on the wrist, as seen here on my colleague Jake’s 6.5-inch wrist, and this isn’t a slim watch by any means. It’s thick and heavy, but the drape and comfort of the Jubilee bracelet translate to a nice wearing experience. That said, this is likely better suited for large wrists than small ones.
Like most modern precious metal Rolex bracelets, this gold Jubilee bracelet benefits from ceramic inserts for added flexibility and reduced stretching. The mix of polished and brushed links makes it all the more extra, and the folding Oysterclasp adds sturdiness. As expected, the clasp comes with the practical Easylink comfort extension link, allowing bracelet length adjustments by approximately 5mm. The Jubilee always manages to glam up any Rolex it’s paired with, and the Sky-Dweller is no exception. The fluted bezel and five-link bracelet match-up is one of Rolex’s most celebrated; it’s worked wonders for the Datejust, and now, the classic pairing is available in another collection. The sportier Oysterflex and Oyster bracelets are still an option but for a dressed-up Sky-Dweller, the appeal of the Jubilee is hard to deny.
Rolex offers the Sky-Dweller ref. 336938 with Intense Black, Champagne, or Intense White dials, the latter of which is the one we got to play with. The freshness of the white complements the warmness of the gold beautifully and among the three, I do think the Intense White is the nicest looking and easiest to read. And there’s plenty to read here. Thanks to the Caliber 9002 annual calendar movement, the Sky-Dweller is one of Rolex’s most complicated watches, combining GMT and annual calendar functionality. While the local hour is displayed via the traditional central hand, the additional time zone is indicated on the off-centered 24-hour disk. There’s also the month indicator, shown through rectangular apertures adjacent to the hour markers, and of course, the customary magnified date window at 3 o’clock — both of which will automatically adjust until March 1st of every year. Though the dial is jam-packed, the light-colored dial does keep things tidy and allows for the two touches of red — the 24-hour pointer and current month window — to stand out.
This being Rolex (and not a fancy Daytona or Perpetual 1908), Caliber 9002 is hidden from sight under a solid yellow gold screw-down caseback. This movement made its debut in 2003 with the release of the new-gen Sky-Dweller family, replacing the preceding Caliber 9001. The biggest change between the two calibers is the newest version includes Rolex’s patented Chronergy escapement, which according to the brand “combines high energy efficiency with great dependability.” The 72-hour power reserve and 28,800bph rate remain the same as the older movement.
It’s likely you have already formed an opinion about gold Rolex watches; you can’t be in the watch space for this long without having a point of view about them, whether it’s yay, nay, or whatevs. Members of the Gold Rolex Appreciation Club will likely think this is an excellent option in the modern lineup while critics of the genre will toss this aside with all the rest of them and deem it way too flashy. Although I’m firmly in the fan camp, I understand that this particular gold Rolex watch wasn’t designed for me (just because of the sheer size) — but that won’t stop me from admiring it on someone else who can wear it with ease. And I may even daydream about them dropping it mid-meal for me to catch and keep. The Rolex Sky-Dweller ref. 336938 watch with a Jubilee bracelet and white dial is priced at $50,000 USD, which for context, is about $10,000 more than a yellow gold Day-Date 40 with a similar dial color. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.