2024 brought us the return of the Toric, the first timepiece developed by Parmigiani Fleurier when the brand was founded in the 1990s. After remodeling the Tonda PF recently to high praise, Parmigiani Fleurier has turned its attention to its first and arguably most important collection, the Toric. The new launch includes two different models, the ultra-minimalist Toric Petite Seconde and the limited-edition Toric Chronograph Rattrapante. Both are distinguished by a hand-grained dial, the new oval-shaped PF logo, and gold movements finished to the highest detail. For this hands-on review, we focus on the Chronograph Rattrapante, produced in limited quantities of just 30 watches for its September 2024 release.

Parmigiani Fleurier added two variations of the Petite Seconde to the Toric lineup in 2024, one in 950 platinum with a grey celadon dial and the other an 18k rose gold model with a sand gold dial. There will only be one Chronograph Rattrapante, and production will be incredibly limited. It will feature a natural umber dial (essentially an earthy-brown color) to match the warm tones of the rose gold case and a light beige Nubuck finish leather strap. A few familiar Toric design elements from the collection’s past remain, most notably the doric column-inspired fluted bezel, while embracing a completely new aesthetic that brings the refreshed Toric in line with the newer Tonda PF. One that celebrates elegant simplicity and a finessed silhouette.

Part of that refreshed aesthetic includes the redesigned case, which now features curved spring bars to fill the space left between the leather strap and case on older models. This design element will undoubtedly make a difference in the overall wrist-wearing experience for some collectors. The new Toric requires a bigger case, measuring 42.5mm in diameter and 14.4mm thick, to house the complicated split-second chronograph movement. However, it should still fit a broad range of wrist sizes thanks to the shorter lugs and leather straps (with lovely “punto a mano” stitching) that drop sharply away from the case. This thoughtful attention to detail echoes Parmigiani Fleurier’s commitment to finding the perfect balance between the complex movement and the elegant shape of the case. Outwardly, there is a striking fluidity throughout. The beveled dial slopes downward, mirroring the shape of the crystal and the fluted bezel. Additionally, the side pushers are in a similar oval shape to the PF logo on the dial.

For the dial, which is in rose gold, the brand employs an ancient graining technique adopted by founder Michael Parmigiani that involves hand-brushing and then polishing the dial to achieve an even, matte texture. As you can see from the images we captured for this review, the dial has a lot of depth and reflects the light beautifully from every angle. I think this texture suits the simplicity of the reborn Toric – anything more ornate would be too busy and take away from the collection’s newfound identity. What’s even more fascinating is how Parmigiani has managed to throw sub-dials into the mix without completely overcrowding the dial, a feat it achieved by recessing the monotone chronograph registers ever so slightly into the watch face and then by decorating them with the tiniest font and hands possible. Any smaller and they would be virtually non-existent and far too illegible. The same sentiment is mirrored around the dial’s perimeter, where we see petite indices that curve down to follow the shape of the “chevé” dial.

And there’s that movement, the caliber PF361-SLIM, the brand’s first integrated chronograph movement, and in 18k rose gold to match the rest of the watch. Unlike the Petite Seconde, featuring a movement almost entirely covered in three large bridges and Côtes de Fleurier, the chronograph is decorated with skeletonized bridges to give us a clear view of the different components. The satin rose gold finish has a softness that complements the powdery brushed dial. If you’re familiar with Parmigiani’s catalog, you’ll notice that the caliber PF361-SLIM is the same movement powering the Chronor Anniversaire released in 2016 and the current-production Tonda PF Split-Seconds Chronograph, complete with the same 65-hour power reserve and a double column wheel for the rattrapante function. While this movement isn’t new to the Parmigiani Fleurier cannon, I can still appreciate the juxtaposition of the ornate, openwork bridges and the understated dial. Not to mention, it just feels appropriate for a high-horology timepiece with a complex split-second chronograph, a 6-figure price tag, and a very limited production run.

So there you have it: the new Parmigiani Toric Chronograph Rattrapante in rose gold, with a serene and earthy color palette that is just different enough to represent Toric’s new forward-thinking approach without losing its appeal. The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Rattrapante Chronograph (PFH951-2010001-300181-EN) is limited to 30 pieces and priced at $145,200 USD. That’s a steep price, but not all that uncommon for an integrated rattrapante of this caliber, and one in rose gold, no less. For more information, please visit the Parmigiani Fleurier website.