One of the great tradeoffs involved with smaller independent watch brands is movement choice. Either these brands select something reliable and off-the-shelf but ultimately pedestrian, or their small-run proprietary power plants end up far beyond the means of the average enthusiast. It doesn’t have to be this way, however, and independent Swiss marque Brellum is an exception to the rule. Not only has it made a specialty of chronographs, but each watch the brand produces is COSC chronometer-certified at a price point where many larger competitors are content to offer simple three-handers. The new limited edition Brellum Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer takes this a step further, with an aggressive black and blue colorway, bold proportions, and an impressively decorated new column-wheel chronograph movement that proves independent powerplants can be both reasonably priced and fun.
Measuring in at 43mm wide, the Brellum Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer’s case is definitely on the larger side of current sizing trends, but it’s a design that wears both smaller and larger than the figures might suggest. Thanks to its lightweight, ultra-dark black DLC-coated Grade 5 titanium case construction, this design feels slim and comfortable on the wrist, with the narrow chamfered lugs virtually disappearing into the integrated strap at certain viewing angles. There’s also the crystals to consider. The Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer uses the brand’s signature domed sapphire caseback, alongside a tall, vintage-style domed sapphire crystal over the dial. This leaves the main case body itself relatively slender (especially thanks to the caseback’s tendency to nestle between the wrist bones), at only 11.7mm thick for the case sides and bezel. With that said, the height of the crystals does pump the full thickness figure up to a sizeable 15.9mm, but the wearing experience is far closer to the former number than the latter. On the other hand, a narrow bezel design gives this piece a broad, all-dial appearance during wear, and the simple aluminum tachymeter insert is likely to raise some enthusiast hackles. In keeping with the sporty styling, Brellum rates the watch for a solid 100 meters of water resistance.
The Brellum Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer’s dial cleaves close to the brand’s standard layout, but adds layers of impressive mixed finishing that add dynamism to what might otherwise be a rather conventional sports chronograph. Most of this comes down to the main dial surface, which breaks up its matte navy blue central segment with an hours track in a light, subtle sunburst, surrounded by a recessed outer minutes scale in an azurage texture. Add in a sloping outer telemeter ring and contrasting black azurage subdials with raised, polished and beveled outer scales, and the Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer interacts with changing light in a myriad of ways across its dial. Brightly polished baton hands and sloping split indices add a brighter layer to the mix, while the white-on-black date display at 6 o’clock keeps this useful element from feeling too obtrusive. With that said, each of the four lines of dial text uses a different font, and several (especially the casual script style used for “Titanium”) of these feel more than a little out of place.
Like every other model in the brand’s catalog, the Brellum Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer uses a COSC-certified chronometer movement, in this case the new BR-111 automatic chronograph. Built on a LaJoux-Perret base, the BR-111 sports an impressive list of specifications at this price point. Beyond the chronometer-grade accuracy, the BR-111 also offers a column wheel chronograph actuation system, a solid 60-hour power reserve, and a 28,800 bph beat rate. If anything, the finishing here punches even further above its weight, with Côtes de Genève for the upper bridges, tight perlage for the lower bridges and balance cock, blued screws, and an eye-catching oversized blued column wheel. To top it all off, Brellum adds a black-coated skeleton rotor finished with additional Côtes de Genève and engraved with the brand’s wyvern emblem. Brellum pairs the Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer with a woven black fabric deployant strap. With fitted ends and thick, rugged construction, this strap fits the sporty, modern character of the watch well overall, but the thickness (particularly around the sturdy titanium deployant clasp) can make for a long break-in period before it feels truly comfortable on the wrist.
Choosing a watch from a smaller independent marque usually means sacrificing either a unique, interesting movement or affordability. With the new limited edition Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer, though, Brellum proves that this compromise isn’t necessary, all while providing a dynamically finished, high-performance modern sports chronograph. Only 46 examples of the Brellum Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer will be made, and the watch is available now through the brand’s e-commerce platform. MSRP for this watch stands at $3,730 USD as of press time. For more information, please visit the Brellum website.